Germany – DJmotortouring

Boppard (Rhein-Pfalz), Germany June 2025 (Tour 11)

From our campsite in Lahnstein we enjoyed a pleasant excursion to the small town of Boppard on the left bank of the Rhine. Ordinarily, that drive would require our crossing the Rhine near Koblenz and driving up the left bank of the river to Boppard but; major roadworks just outside Lahnstein required that we follow the right bank (along Rheinuferstrasse) to the tiny hamlet of Filsen and then take the Filsen-Boppard ferry across to the left bank. That suited us. It’s a quicker and more direct drive from Lahnstein to Filsen and; out of season there is ample parking by the small ferry terminal. The small ferry seemed to run every half hour and it proved a delightfully quick and inexpensive crossing.

We nearly visited Boppard once before. While staying in Bacharach during Tour 6, Boppard was recommended as a place to visit by a local. We were up for it but missed the boat and the later one (which we did take) went only as far north as Sankt Goar and, on the other bank, Sankt Goarshausen. We very much enjoyed that boat trip.

The stretch of the river on which Boppard (and Sankt Goar) stands, is classified as the Upper Middle Rhine Valley (the Rhine Gorge) and this whole area is a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is full of fairy tale towns & castles, vineyards & wine and hills & hiking although; this time we were there simply to enjoy Boppard. There has been a town on this site since well before the Romans arrived (the ruins of the Roman Fort in the town date back to Julius Caesar) but, for the most part, the existing buildings in the old town (that’s the stretch between the river bank and the railway line) date from the 17th and 18th centuries. It’s a fair sized and picturesque town.

Of course the first thing Vanya did upon entering Boppard’s old town was to find an ice cream parlour which served Spaghetti Eis but I’ll not dwell on that. We wandered the length and breadth of the town for a while, taking time out for lunch on the pretty and mostly pedestrianised Marktplatz and, again, for high tea at a riverbank cafe on Rheinallee. And why not? Vanya had started our trip to Boppard with Spaghetti Eis. It was only fair I should end it with apple cake.

The Marktplatz, with it’s many half timbered houses and restaurant-bars, is dominated by the town’s principal landmark, the 12th/13th century Saint Severus Church. It’s an elegant, twin spired building with many interesting features throughout and; easily, the most impressive church of all those I have seen on this part of the Rhine.

Another interesting religious building is the 14th century Carmelite Monastery or, to be more precise, the church of the former Carmelite Monastery since the principal monastery buildings now serve as the town hall. Fascinating might better describe this particular church. It’s spartan exterior is wholly at odds with it’s almost ostentatious interior. It is brimming with so many charming features and artifacts; the wonderfully intricate 15th century choirstalls; it’s 14th century carved altarpiece; it’s many 13th century frescoes and wooden panels; numerous elaborate flags and; my favourite, the unusual and very austere stone pulpit. I could have spent ages in that place.

Another building worth a mention is the Kurfu:stliche Castle; otherwise known as the Electoral Castle of Trier. It’s not a castle in the true sense of the word (it doesn’t have any real defensive capability) but was built as an official station to collect river tolls. It has since served as a police station, a prison and even as a hospital. It is now a museum. If you’re looking for a defensive castle, there are plenty of them strung all along the Rhine and, of course, Boppard has the remains of it’s Roman Fort. I couldn’t get a decent photo of this building (I was the wrong side of the river) but the one below (a Getty photo I believe) is as good as it gets.

The Electoral Castle (a great photo but not mine – Getty?)

I mentioned at the outset that this is a good area for hiking. Indeed, there’s 200+ miles of hiking trails (and an alpine via ferrata) in the immediate area. I understand that much of the walking is through forests and vineyards but there are numerous rest areas and ‘Aussichtspunkte’ which facilitate great view over and along the Rhine.

Boppard even operates a Sesselbahn (chairlift) between April and October which for just a few Euros provides access to three very good viewing points to the north of the town. In just 20 minutes the chairlift travels 915 metres, with 232 metres of height gain, to the Gedeonseck View Point (with it’s a restaurant-bar and a tremendous view up the Rhine). From the Gedeonseck it is a short walk to the Vierseenblick View Point (also with a restaurant and so named because it presents a view of four different stretches of the Rhine which can make the Rhine look like a lake) and; further still, is the real prize of the Bopparder Hamm View Point (for a panoramic view of the largest loop of the Rhine). There’s a path underneath the chairlift for those with a fear of heights.

View over the Rhine from Gedeonseck (not my photo)

And the via Ferrata? It too is just to the north of the town with excellent views of the Bopparder Hamm. It has 11 climbing sections of varying difficulty and offers sensational views of both the Rhine Valley and the Hunsrück Mountains.

Lahnstein (Rhein-Pfalz), Germany June 2025 (Tour 11)

Lahnstein, in the Rheinland Palatinate, is a town of some 18,000 people which sits at the confluence of the Rhein and Lahn rivers. Although we drove through the town many times during trips out to Boppard, Koblenz and Rheinbach (more about those places later), we didn’t get to wander the town itself. We’ll correct that some time in the future because this is an area we will most certainly return to.

We’d booked into Camping Wolfsmu:hle on the banks of the River Lahn for a couple of nights. The site is conveniently placed for visits to various small towns and villages along the Rhein and Moselle Rivers and, initially, we had it in mind to visit Boppard (on the Rhine) and Koblenz (at the confluence of the Rhine and the Moselle). However, we were so impressed with the site that within an hour or two of settling in we asked to stay an extra night with a view to also visiting Cochem (on the Moselle). Our pitch, the setting and the camp facilities were all first class but it was the welcome we received from the kindly site manager (Gerd) and the Dutch family managing the camp restaurant-bar that really made the place. Without any doubt, Camping Wolfsmuhle is worthy of inclusion in our list of ‘most excellent campsites’.

As it happened we managed to see Boppard (and a blog follows) but the planned visits to Koblenz and Cochem gave way to a lengthy and time consuming search for a ‘Schaukelstuhl’. I should explain that a few days beforehand, Vanya had seen a camping style rocking chair which she coveted. It was a Berger Soria Rocking Chair (a Berger Schaukelstuhl) and, having discovered the manufacturer and model, Vanya also identified a number of retail outlets within a 40 mile radius that should sell them. We wasted the best part of a day hunting this blessed chair down but none of the outlets we visited had any in stock (because they were on offer and had sold like hot cakes). In the end, I telephoned the Fritz Berger Retail Outlet in Rheinbach (which we would pass on our way further north) and they agreed to hold one for me until I arrived. Bless them.

We made it to Rheinbach and Vanya secured her rocking chair but we’ll have to return next year if we are to see Lahnstein, Koblenz and Cochem. Fingers crossed for next year.

Wurzburg (Lower Franconia – Bayern), Germany June 2025 (Tour 11)

Wurzburg is one of the more memorable cities in one of my favourite parts of Germany. Situated amongst the rolling hills and vineyards of Lower Franconia and straddling the River Main, it is the starting point of the so called ‘Romantic Road’ which leads to Fussen in the Schwaben Region of Bayern. Don’t get too excited about the ‘Romantic Road’. I was very critical of it some years ago in my blog on Fussen. It’s a means by which some of Bavaria’s more enterprising travel agents were able to link a long list of towns and/or villages they wanted to promote. At the last count there were more than 30 such towns and villages but the numbers continue to grow. Having said all that, there are some wonderfully picturesque and historical places amongst the list; including Wurzburg, Fussen and, my favourite of them all, Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

But back to Wurzburg. It’s a gem of a place and not to be overlooked. It deserves at least two full days of exploration; longer if one’s stay is to be maximised.

Having parked the Van in a large riverside ‘Stellplatz’ on Dreikronenstrasse, we walked south along the left bank of the River Main and then across the Alte Mainbrucke into the old town (the Altstadt). In some respects this 12th century bridge, adorned with 12 statues of saints and statesmen, reminds me of Charles’ Bridge in Prague except; the views from this bridge are, if anything, even more picturesque and; on a sunny day, it’s a great deal more lively because of the wine bars, cafes and food stalls located at both ends of the bridge. It was a sunny day as we arrived and the bridge was packed with people quaffing large glasses of the local white wine. Small wonder that the Alte Mainbrucke is known locally as the Wine Bridge.

The views from the Mainbrucke both across to the Altstadt and, especially, back towards the 13th century Marienberg Fortress are pleasing.

The Marienberg Fortress from the Alte Mainbrucke…

The Marienberg Fortress holds a prominent position on the left bank of the River Main. It was the home for more than 500 years to the local Prince-Bishops and it is steeped in history. It was besieged during the 16th century German Peasants War and again in the 30 Years War against Sweden. Add to this the fortress’ involvement in the French Revolutionary and Coalition Wars, the Austro-Prussian War, the Franco-Prussian War (the list goes on and on all the way up to and including the Second World War) and; it is easy to understand why so little remains of the original fortress. Most of the existing structure dates from the 16th and 18th centuries; hence the largely Renaissance and Baroque styles. The Fortress (containing two museums and two restaurants) and it’s gardens are open to the public (for a small fee) and there are several viewing points both in the fortress and on the route up to the fortress all of which offer panoramic views over the Main River, the historic city centre and the surrounding countryside. The view of the old town is particularly impressive…

View of the Altstadt from a viewing point during the ascent to the fortress

Looking over the city as it is now, it is difficult to believe that during WWII Wu:rzburg suffered as much, if not more, damage than Dresden. In one 20 minute air raid in March 1945 the Allies destroyed more than 90% of the city. After the war Wurzburg was painstakingly rebuilt (by it’s women for the most part, because many of the city’s men were either dead or in Soviet prison camps) and, today, it once again ranks as one of the most beautiful cities in Germany.

Having crossed the bridge, we started our exploration of the Altstadt at the Marktplatz. It was late in the morning but a few vendors were still on the square as we arrived; selling fruit and vegetables, mostly, and with white asparagus looking particularly plentiful. It is ‘Spargelzeit’ in Germany during the period April to June and white asparagus is on sale everywhere at this time.

We stopped for coffee and cake outside a small cafe on the Marktplatz with me people watching and tending our dogs while Vanya wandered the stalls and; then she did the same while I visited the very grand looking, red and white coloured Marienkapelle (Saint Mary’s Chapel); a huge chapel which totally dominates the Marktplatz. By the way, a chapel differs from a church only inasmuch that it doesn’t have a parish or congregation. This particular chapel suffered badly from allied bombing during WW2 with the interior and the rafters being completely destroyed. Rebuilt between 1948 and 1961 and reconsecrated in 1962 it’s interior is magnificent.

Behind the Marienkapelle is another stunning building; the yellow and white coloured Falkenhaus. Originally the home of an affluent Catholic priest, this building served as a guesthouse and inn from 1735 until it too was destroyed by bombing near the end of WW2. After the war, the building was rebuilt with much the same exterior as before but; inside was altered so as to accommodate the city’s public library and a tourist information office.

There are at least three other ‘must see’ buildings in Wurzburg’s Altstadt (the City Hall, the Cathedral and the Royal Palace) but; walking these three, together with those in the vicinity of the Marktplatz, you’ll inevitably stumble across numerous other interesting sites (the Fischerbrunnen, Neumunster Church, Greiffenclau-Palais, Weingut Juliusspital and the University campus to name but a few) all enclosed within what is known as the Ring Park. Wurzburg is a compact city and easily walked. Moreover, much of it is pedestrianised although; you should keep a wary eye out for the trams.

The 14th century Rathaus or City Hall is a gem of a building. It is easily identified by it’s 55 metre tower, the Grafeneckart, which can be climbed (for a small fee) for views over the town. This time, I passed on the climb but the inside is well worth visiting if only to view the story boards and scale model of the city which detail the damage caused to the city during World War II.

From the Grafeneckart it is but a short walk along Dom Strasse to to the city’s cathedral (Dom Saint Lilian). A service was underway as I entered and, consequently, I spent more time in the crypt than in the church proper but I saw enough to be impressed and this building too is well worth the visit. Parts of it date back to 1040 but construction wasn’t completed until some time in the 13th century. The Cathedral too was badly damaged during the bombing in 1945 but was rebuilt and re-consecrated in 1967.

To the rear of the Cathedral, at the end of Hofstrasse, is the former Royal Palace of the city’s Prince-Bishops. Known locally as the Wurzburg Residence it is the most impressive of all the buildings in Wurzburg and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s a magnificent palace overflowing with artistic treasures; whether they be in the form of impressive architecture, decorative walls and ceilings, lavish furniture and fittings or it’s beautiful gardens. It exudes history too; one of it’s more famous residents being Napoleon Bonaparte who visited Wurzburg on at least three occasions and overnighted at the Palace on his way to invade Russia in 1812. Indeed, he took 2,ooo of Wurzburg’s soldiers with him on that ill fated jaunt and very few returned.

Just a few other photo reminders of an all too short but wonderful visit to Wurzburg. We’ll definitely be back and next time our focus will be more towards the food and drink…

During our last tour in this part of Germany, I mentioned Franconia’s beers and the many breweries to be found in the region. This time I must give a short shout in praise of the area’s wines. The white wines are many and varied and as easy drinking and distinctive as the bottle in which they are often sold -the unmistakeable ‘Bocksbeutel’ bottle.

One place we must visit when next in Wurzburg is the Burgerspital winery. They supposedly store the oldest bottles of white wine anywhere in the world: their 1540 Steinwein. I’m not sure I want to try that particular wine but a visit to their tasting room ‘Weinhaus unterm Glockenspiel’ (which translates to ‘wine house below the bell chimes’) is definitely on the cards; not least because it is open 7 days a week.

My last words on Wurzburg (at least from this visit) must be about Wilhelm Conrad Ro:ntgen who once held the Physics Chair at Wurzburg University. It was while holding this position that in 1895 he discovered X-Rays. As a result, in 1901 he became the first recipient of the Nobel Prize for Physics and, good egg that he was, he donated the Nobel prize money (50,000 Swedish Kroner) to the university declaring that his discoveries should be publicly available without charge. Ironic isn’t it that he should die a pauper and I should be writing this blog just hours after being charged a small fortune for X-Rays by my dentist on behalf of our ailing National Health Service.

Uffenheim (Mittelfranken – Bayern), Germany June 2025 (Tour 11)

We crossed the border from Austria into Germany two days ago; stopping one night at Camping Hotel Preishof in Kirchham bei Bad Fussing and a second at Camping Felbermuhle on the edge of Neustadt an der Donau (near Passau).

We were heading for Wurzburg in Lower Franconia but would visit and spend the next night in the small city of Uffenheim in Middle Franconia. Our chosen campsite in Wurzburg was fully occupied but the municipal site in Uffenheim (just a few miles short of Wurzburg) had space and we reasoned that we could visit Wurzburg from there the following day, as we continued northwards.

Uffenheim’s campsite, adjacent to the swimming pool, is just a ten minute walk from the city centre and that allowed me plenty of opportunity to properly explore it’s old town. Indeed, I visited the old town twice during our short stay; once on my own during the afternoon we arrived and; again in the evening, with Vanya. Perhaps I expected too much of this tiny city (it has just 6,500 inhabitants) but, I was left somewhat disappointed by the place. There’s little there of interest and much was closed.

There’s a partially preserved city wall, two city gate towers and at least three churches, all of which were closed. Otherwise, there’s not a lot else. I entered the old town by way of the Wurzburger Tor. I wandered the area for a while; looking for a decent bar or restaurant for dinner at which to take dinner that evening, but; most of the decent looking bars and restaurants were also closed. I think we had arrived in Bayern during some form of local holiday because a large proportion of the city’s cafe-bars and restaurants were closed. I stopped for a beer at the friendly Eiscafe Da Mauri on Marktplatz and, while there, took note of the Pizzeria e Ristorante Calabria (on the opposite side of the street) as a possible place for a pizza if nothing better opened during the evening but; that was it.

None of the better looking restaurants did open during our short stay but the Pizzeria e Ristorante Calabria served a decent pizza later that evening and I received a warm welcome from the owner of the Eiscafe Da Mauri when we subsequently crossed the street for dessert.

In the morning we would visit Wurzburg and that I was very much looking forward to…

Tubingen (Baden-Wurttemberg), Germany September 2024 (Tour 10)

We very much enjoyed Marburg and were reluctant to leave but, the weather forecast across Germany (and almost all of northern Europe) was so bad that we thought it best to make our way south west into France or even Spain. We chose to go by way of another scenic university city, Tubingen in Swabia. This city is purportedly one of Germany’s sunniest spots although you wouldn’t believe it while we were there. In fact, I’m thinking we should have driven even further west because I was absolutely drenched whilst wandering the city centre.

Tubingen straddles the River Neckar and a part of my walk into the city from the campsite took me on to the Neckarinsel. This artificial island is about three quarters of a mile long and a path lined with 200 year old Plane trees (the Platanenallee) runs it’s length to the Eberhardsbrucke in the city centre. This route along the island provides some fine views of the colourful 15th and 16th century buildings lining the Neckar. The most impressive views however are from the bridge or, better still, from a Stockerkahn which is a flat bottom boat not unlike the punts to be found on the River Cam in Cambridge. The Stockerkahn is propelled in the same way as a punt too.

*A view along the Neckar from the Eberhardsbrucke*

*The River Neckar complete with a Stockerkhan* *and the Zwingel Wall*

A staircase at the end of the island leads up on to the Eberhardsbrucke (which bridge is named in honour of Count Eberhard V who started the city’s university in 1477) and from there one can enter the old town via the Neckargasse or along a narrow path by the Zwingel Wall. I walked both routes during my short time in the city.

Before I forget, there’s a large birdhouse at the foot of the staircase which intrigued me. I learned that it serves to help control the city’s pigeon population which is as great a problem in Tubingen as in any other European city. When the pigeons nest in the birdhouse, city workers replace their eggs with plaster ones. This may not be one of the most successful methods of controlling pigeon numbers but it is perhaps one of the more humane.

Once up on the bridge I made my way to the 15th century Collegiate Church of Saint George (known more commonly as the Stiftskirche) which is on the Holzmarkt. This is another church which converted to Protestantism, the first Protestant service being held in the church during 1534. My primary reason for heading there was to take advantage of the supposedly good views from it’s belltower but, it wasn’t to be. The belltower was closed for the day but, no matter, the Stiftskirche is a beautiful and interesting church.

One detail I noticed about the church’s choir is that the carving of Moses shows him with horns on his head, much like a devil. I didn’t know this until today but it seems a great many images of Moses from the Middle Ages portray him with horns. It is not absolutely clear how this came about but it is suspected the horns were added to discredit him at a time when Christians and Jews were in conflict.

*Collegiate Church of Saint George (Stiftskirche)*

The Holzmarkt is adjacent to the Marktplatz and this market square has to be the focal point of the city with it’s more than impressive town hall (the Rathaus), Neptune’s Fountain (Neptunbrunnen) and the square’s many multifloored 15th and 16th century buildings. Tubingen escaped the heavy bombing which saw so many places devastated during World War II (only one bomb is recorded as having landed on the city) and it’s medieval centre is almost perfectly preserved.

The colourful Rathaus takes pride of place with it’s ornate astronomical clock and it’s tiny, flower covered balcony which comes into it’s own during civil wedding services when the newly married couple are encouraged to take their first kiss as husband and wife on the balcony in front of a cheering crowd.

And then it began to rain, softly at first…

Despite the rain I continued with my walk around this colourful little city; admiring the abundance of flowers and some very good street art (there was a lot of not so nice grafitti too – just awful scribble) and; visiting a couple more churches too but then the heavens really opened.

It was a cloudburst, a deluge, and I was well and truly caught in it. I was drenched. I found shelter for a while in a cafe (over coffee and apfelkuchen) but the rain wouldn’t let up and as time dragged on I felt obliged to try and make my way back to the Van. I started skipping (prancing is perhaps a more accurate description) from one door to another. It was slow progress… and then I noticed the Stolpersteine… more of Gunter Demnig’s work… small memorial plaques laid in the pavement in front of the former homes of victims of the Nazis… and my progress became slower still.

I made it back to the Van a while later. The bad weather stopped me searching out other stolpersteine and all the forecasts suggest it will continue to rain for the next few days.

It was time to move on. I missed out on the Hohentubingen Castle with it’s Renaissance style lower gate (the Unteres Schloss Tor), the Eberhard Karls University, the Wurmlinger Chapel and who knows what else but; I suspect I will return to Tubingen.

Marburg (Hesse), Germany September 2024 (Tour 10)

I’d never heard of Marburg until we started looking for a place to overnight while on our way to Quedlingburg. We came for one day, stayed 4 and forgot all about Quedlingburg. That says it all. It’s a quintessential German city, full of character and points of interest and it’s beautiful. Moreover, during our visit we didn’t see or hear a single tourist. I guess not many other people have heard of the place either.

My initial exploration of the city commenced with a walk up through the Oberstadt to the Landgrafen Palace (the Landgrafenschloss) which towers over Marburg. It was a hot walk with the promised sun, that we’ve been chasing since leaving England, raising the local temperature to at least 30 degrees centigrade. The walk up was steep, through mostly narrow cobbled streets and even narrower lanes lined with colombage houses. Given how hot it was I was content to wander the castle grounds and view the outside of what is now, for the most part, a museum.

*A painting of the Landgrafenschloss towering over Marburg*

While walking to and from the palace I was intrigued by various interesting fairy tale features which adorn the route. They are a nod to the Brothers Grimm, Jacob and Wilhelm, who attended Philipps University in Marburg during the period 1802 to 1806. There are a number of these features dotted around the city and it is possible to obtain a map showing their whereabouts from the local tourist office. I didn’t have a copy of the map (I think it is called the Grimm Trail) but, even so, I stumbled across Cinderella’s shoe; the magic mirror from Snow White and the Seven Dwarves; the Frog Prince from the fairy tale of the same name; seven flies from the Brave Little Tailor and; a series of statues representing the Wolf and the Seven Kids.

If it wasn’t so hot and if there weren’t quite so many steps in Marburg, I’m sure I would have stumbled upon more of the fairy tale features but, I needed a beer and so made my way back to the city’s Marktplatz where I’d previously noticed a bar selling Veltins, a Pilsner I had very much enjoyed at a beer festival in Mainz a couple of years ago.

The Marktplatz, with it’s red sandstone Rathaus (City Hall) and the Saint George Fountain (so named because the fountain is topped by a statue of St George killing his dragon), is one of the prettier parts of Marburg and a popular meeting place among the city’s large student population. The 450+ year old Rathaus is by far the most picturesque building on the square. It is nothing less than splendid.

In a corner close to the Rathaus is a statue of Sophie of Brabant holding her son, Henry. Sophie was the daughter of the city’s most famous personage, Elizabeth of Thuringia (more about her later), and it was in this square during the War of the Thuringian Succession that Sophie proclaimed her son Henry the Landgrave of the independent territory of Hesse.

Marburg is a long established university city with a young age profile (23,500 of the 73,000 population are students) and the Marktplatz reflects that. It is very much a meeting place with it’s numerous cafes, bars and restaurants. I sat on the square nursing a couple of beers for a thoroughly enjoyable hour just watching the world go by and listening to a couple of buskers. They were good.

Vanya and I returned to the town later in the day to take dinner on the square but the buskers I had so much enjoyed earlier in the day were gone and in their place was an absolutely atrocious soul singer. Despite the lovely setting and the okay meal, I couldn’t get off the square quick enough but; we promised ourselves we would return the following night (and we did, with our friends Craig and Julie who arrived in Marburg that same day).

A little bit about two of the city’s more remarkable churches; the Lutheran Parish Church and the Elisabethkirche. The Elisabethkirche is the most impressive of the two but it was the Lutheran Parish Church (also known as the Marienkirche – Saint Mary’s in English) which captured my attention.

The Marienkirche is the slightly older of the two churches dating back to 1222 (compared to 1235 for the Elisabethkirche) but in 1527 the then Landgrave Philip the Magnaminous declared it to be the Protestant Parish Church of Marburg. It was to be the first Protestant church in Hesse and subsequently became known as the Lutheran Parish Church. However, it is not the church’s history which charmed me during my visit nor even it’s very obvious leaning spire. It was a young string ensemble practising Bach in readiness for weekend concert in the church. They were tremendous. It seems the church is well known for it’s acoustics and I note that the Bach evening will be followed by a soprano singer (Miriam Feuersinger) and, in October, a ‘Night of the Choirs’ which will see a minimum 15 choirs performing 20 minute sets. That’s with free admission too and such events will be something I will be checking out during any future visits to Marburg.

In contrast, the Elisabethkirche proved a total letdown as this most beautiful and historically interesting church was mostly closed for restoration purposes. This church was built to celebrate the short life of the Landgravine Elisabeth of Thuringia. She died in 1231 at the age of 24 but achieved enough in that short life to be sanctified by the Catholic Church just 4 years later. The church was built alongside a hospital (there’s little left of that now) which she created for the area’s sick and poor. Her relics are interred in a tomb in the church which is supposedly a masterpiece of intricate carving and medieval goldsmithing. Another particularly interesting feature of the church is the beautiful stained glass window depicting scenes from Elisabeth’s life. Created in 1957 it is considered to be one of the most celebrated modern stained glass windows in Germany.

Another interesting building just opposite from the front entrance of the Elisabethkirche is a small chapel, Saint Michael’s Kappelle. This chapel was commissioned by the Teutonic Order of Knights in 1270 to celebrate the lives of numerous pilgrims who, after coming to Marburg ill and hoping to be saved by Saint Elisabeth, died in the city and needed to be buried. The graveyard where these pilgrims are buried surrounds the chapel and it was used until about 1530 when Marburg turned Protestant.

Talking of hospitals, shortly after arriving in Marburg I was interested to learn that between 1943 and 1945 (during World War II), the whole city became a hospital. It was decided that all government buildings near to a hospital or doctor’s surgery were to become hospital wards for wounded German soldiers and as many as 20,000 soldiers were held in these wards at any given time. Consequently, the city wasn’t bombed by the allies.

Well, that’ll do for now except to say that (a) we will definitely return to Marburg and (b) our stay was very much enhanced through our staying at a quite excellent campsite on the banks of the River Lahn (just 20 minutes walk from the city along an excellent cycle path) – the Campsite Lahnaue.

*And there’s the Frog Prince. Which one I hear you ask.*

Monschau (Nordrhein-Westfalen), Germany September 2024 (Tour 10)

Sometimes referred to as the Pearl of the Eifel Nature Reserve, Monschau is a small fairy tale town on the banks of the River Rur (not to be confused with the Ruhr). Of course it is very much a tourist town (complete with tourist train and American accents) but it is picturesque and, being almost halfway between Tournai and Marburg, it was the perfect spot for us to break our journey.

After registering at a (very expensive) campsite outside the town, we made our way to the town centre in the Van and parked on Herbert Isaac Strasse outside the Handwerkmarkt. It is a quick and easy walk from there into the Altstadt although, in truth, almost all of Monschau could be described as Altstadt. We had it in mind to explore the centre first and then grab a bite to eat before walking the Panorama Weg (more about that later) and finishing inside the Handwerkmarket – and that is precisely what we did. The fact is, Monschau is a very small town and you really don’t need more than half a day to see it. If the weather was better we might have stayed a little longer but rain was forecast.

Monschau dates back to at least the 1100s. However, its heyday was during the 17th to 18th century when it had a thriving textile industry. Thereafter the town’s prosperity went into decline but it has been well preserved and it looks very much as it did some 250 years ago. Tourism is now it’s only source of income.

The town is replete with narrow winding cobbled streets lined by more than 200 historically listed houses; the vast majority of which are 18th century half timbered properties. Those on the banks of the Rur make for an especially pretty sight.

After a quick exploration of the town taking in the Catholic and Evangelical Churches and the Rotes Haus (an interesting and impressive fully furnished Mansion House built by a successful local merchant which perfectly reflects bourgeois living in the 18th century), we settled down for a late brunch at a cafe on the market place. Well, I had something to eat (and the obligatory beer) while Vanya simply went for her favourite Spaghettieis (although she wasn’t all that impressed with this particular offering).

The two churches surprised me. It is invariably the Roman Catholic rather than the Protestant churches which are the more sumptuously furnished. It is not so in Monschau. There’s a simple richness in the decor and furnishings of the Evangelical church that reflects the success of the local merchants at the time the church was opened (1810) and/but which is missing from the Catholic church.

Before setting off for the Handwerkmarkt which Vanya was keen to see, I took a quick walk up and around what is known locally as the Panorama Weg. It’s a short 1.5 mile walk which loops around the outside of the town and offers some fine views of both the town and the town castle (Burg Monschau). Don’t believe those who tell you that there are some excellent views of the town from the castle. The best views are to be found walking the Panorama Weg and it is an easy little walk.

As for the 13th century Burg Monschau; it isn’t much of a place. It has some pretty gardens but most of the castle is given over to use as a youth hostel.

And so to the Handwerkmarkt. It’s a large and impressive handicraft market with the added attractions of a splendid glass store (complete with on site glass blowing) and a striking sand sculpture exhibition. I suspect it was established by local merchants so as to capitalise from the many tourists drawn to this very pretty town and, if so, good luck to them. It is worth an hour or two of anyone’s time (especially if it’s raining – and, by the time we got there, it was raining). There’s a small charge for entry into the sand sculptures (understandable – the sculptors have to make a living) and an even smaller charge if you want to try glass blowing but, otherwise, entrance is free.

Overall, we enjoyed our short excursion into Monschau and had it not started raining, I believe we would have stayed longer.

Our next stop is Marburg in the Hesse Region of Germany and I for one am looking forward to that.

Altdorf and Eging Am See (Lower Bavaria), Germany September 2023 (Tour 8)

It was time to leave Franconia and head for Austria. We were going to visit some good friends who live just to the south of Vienna and we’d promised to arrive within the next two days but; there was still time to see a little more of Germany and/or Austria on the way.

We started towards Eging am See for no other reason than that it is about a 3 hour drive closer to Austria. The route took us through the small market town of Altdorf and we paused there for brunch. Vanya and I thought Altdorf a quiet little town but pleasant enough for a short wander and we enjoyed a tasty brunch before continuing on our way to Eging Am See.

Eging am See proved to be disconcerting. Indeed, if there were to be a really menacing remake of the Stepford Wives I think it would have be set here.

I set off into the town from our camp site and arrived first at what looked like a brand new church (Saint Agidius). The front of the church was boarded up; awaiting a new door, I thought. Other buildings in the immediate area also looked brand new. The town hall, the tourist office, a couple of apartment blocks were all built of the same materials as the church and all were as yet unfurnished and unoccupied. The thing which struck me as most odd was that all of the headstones in the adjoining graveyard (many of them dating back over a hundred years) were also brand new. The WWI and WWII war memorials also looked newly built.

I subsequently discovered that the church and churchyard were being given a total facelift but, I didn’t know this as I made my way through the town park to the lake to check out the large spa facility and gardens and; that’s where things got really weird.

The local park with it’s ‘Garden of Sinne’ (Garden of the Senses) is located between the spa facility (the Sonnen Therme) and Lake Eginger. It contains a number of interesting and very unusual granite rock exhibits which provide different perspectives of the park and the lake. They are part of the spa complex and ordinarily I would have thought this a pleasant place to wander but there was something else. There were no people about. Indeed, I had not seen more than one or two since setting off to the town. Strange or what, given the time of the day and the fine weather?

And then… just as I entered the park, air raid sirens started wailing (from somewhere in the woods I think) and dogs all over the town began barking. Disconcerting? It was wholly unnerving.

There follows some photos I downloaded from the town website of the park and, in particular, of some of the granite exhibits.

It occured to me the next day that the air raid sirens were part of a civil defence exercise. Putin has been threatening to drag Western Europe deeper into his war with the Ukraine and just before we left the UK the British Government trialled an early warning alert using cell phones. Germany are doing much the same but using air raid sirens.

Time to move on into Austria.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Middle Franconia), Germany September 2023 (Tour 8)

After a superb day at Forchheim we returned to our campsite near Bamberg to plan the next day or two and enjoy a couple of drinks. I’d previously researched Franconia and it didn’t take me long to persuade Vanya that the little town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber in Middle Franconia should be our next destination.

Sitting on the terrace of the campsite bar, planning our next move.

I booked us into a camp site near Rothenburg – the Tauberromantik; so called because it sits on the ‘Romantic Road’ (a scenic route conceived and marketed by canny travel agents as a ploy to increase tourism in the area between Rothenburg and Fussen) and we set off early the next morning.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is an extraordinarily pretty place. In terms of population it is only a third of the size of Forchheim but it easily matches the larger town for things to see and do. Anyone visiting the town needs to spend a minimum two days here (and at least one night) just to scratch the surface of the place and we decided to do just that.

Rothenburg resembles a Walt Disney fairytale town and it is easy to see why it was revered as ‘the most German of German towns’ in the 1930’s. Indeed, the Nazis used to bus children into the town from all over Germany so that they could experience this picture perfect town. We made our way towards the town centre through the Klingentor (gate) and stopped at the Guckloch bar for a spot of refreshment (it was a hot day) and to plan our route around the town.

Sitting in the sunshine outside the Guchloch Bar near the Klingentor. There are 4 kilometres of sentry walls to walk from the Klingentor.

Sadly, our plan didn’t materialise. Vanya was in real pain with her hip and after escorting her and the dogs back to the Van I was left to explore the place on my own in the hope that, after resting her hip some more, she would be able to join me for a shorter more focused tour of the town during the evening. Fingers crossed.

Making my way back into the town I again passed through the Klingentor, this time pausing to view the Wolfgangskirche. The Wolfgangskirche is a fortress church near the Klingentor and it originally formed part of the medieval town’s defences. Indeed, the tower gate adjacent to the church (that’s the Torwachterhaus or Sentries’ House) and it’s casements (gun emplacements) are each accessed from inside the church through a door by the altar. It wasn’t until I saw the Wolfgangskirche that I really began to understand what a fortress church is.

I set my mind to walk a section of the castle walls later in the day but to start with I made for the “Plonlein”. A plonlein is a small square with a fountain and there are few of those across Rothenburg but the plonlein I was going to is arguably the town’s most popular landmark and certainly one of the most picturesque. It’s not far from the town’s main square and it features a tall crooked mustard coloured half timbered house which sits on a cobbled square (with the necessary fountain) between two 13th century city gates, the Siebersturm and the Kobolzellarturm. There is little that is historically significant about this particular setting but images of the place are to be found on countless travel blogs (especially those promoting the Romantic Road) and it was the inspiration behind Geppetto’s home in Walt Disney’s 1940 animated film ‘Pinocchio’. It really is the most picturesque spot in a particularly enchanting little town.

*The Plonlein* (with the Siebersturm and the Kobolzellarturm)

After visiting the Plonlein I made for Rothenburg’s lively Marktplatz where the Rathaus (Town Hall), with it’s unusual mix of 13th century Gothic and 16th century Renaissance styles, is located. The Rathaus, together with it’s white tower, is the most imposing building on the Marktplatz but there are other interesting features to be found on the square, most particularly the Georgsbrunnen Fountain (with it’s wonderfully detailed statue of St. George killing a dragon) and numerous half timbered buildings, my favourite being the Ratstrinkstube Clock Tower.

The Rathaus was not open while I was on the Marktplatz or I would have made a point of going up it’s 50 metre high Tower which is towards the back of the building. There’s a nominal charge (with the entrance being through the arches at the front of the town hall and not where you might expect it to be at the foot of the tower) but it supposedly offers some of the best views in Rothenburg.

Which brings me to my favourite building on the Marktplatz, the Ratstrinkstube (sometimes known as the Council Tavern because for a period of time it was only the city fathers who could drink in the bar – the general public were denied entry). Legend has it that in 1631, during the Thirty Years War, the Protestant town of Rothenburg was seized and about to be destroyed by the Catholic forces of a certain Count Tilly until the then mayor (Burgermeister Georg Nusch) persuaded the Count to accept a wager which would see the town spared if the mayor could drink an entire (3.25 litre) jug of wine in one go. That’s almost a gallon of wine. Mayor Nusch finished the wine in one visit and the Count honoured the wager and spared the town. Nowadays, when the clock chimes on the hour (between 10am and 10pm), two doors either side of the clock on the Ratstrinkstube open and the event is to some extent re-enacted by puppets, one of which is Mayor Nusch drinking from a large tankard while the clock chimes.

It is a real joy strolling Rothenburg’s pretty little backstreets, not least because it takes you away from the numerous tour groups that frequent the town during the day. One particularly charming building I stumbled across while walking the backstreets is “Die Gerlachschmiede”, an old forge built in 1469 which was destroyed during a bombing raid in WW2 but faithfully restored to the original specification (and which continued to be worked by a blacksmith until well into the 1960’s).

I could go on for ages writing about the many wonderful places in Rothenburg but it is time to let some photos do the talking; starting with the town’s High Gothic Church of St Jakob’s (Saint James in English). This triple nave church was consecrated in 1485, having taken more than 150 years to build, and it contains some beautifully ornate fixtures and fittings which lend themselves more to a Roman Catholic church than an Evangelical Lutheran church. Of course, St Jakob’s once was a Catholic church.

Outside Saint Jakob’s Church. Saint Jakob’s is a major stop on the Jakobsweg to Santiago de Compostela.

Inside Saint Jakob’s looking towards the central nave (and the Hauptaltar and large stained glass windows) and looking towards the rear of the church at the 1968 organ. There are organs at both ends of the church.

Another view towards the Hauptaltar from under one of the arches at the rear of the church. Just inside the main entrance is an unusual African wood carving of the Nativity…

*The Holy Blood Altarpiece crafted by Tilman Riemenschneider.*

… and at the back of the church is the Holy Blood Altarpiece, a beautifully carved depiction of the Last Supper crafted by Tilman Riemenschneider in 1505. Unusually, Judas Iscariot takes centre stage in this work of art but this figure can be (and is) removed between Good Friday and Easter Monday.

I mentioned previously that Rothenburg boasts 4 kilometres of some of the best preserved medieval walls in Germany. Those stretching along the northern and eastern sides of the town are covered sentry walls and they make for a great 2.5 kilometre walk from the Klingentor, through the Galgentor (Gallows Gate) and Rotertor, all the way to the Spitalbastel.

*A section of the covered sentry walls between Klingentor and Spitalbastel*

There are still 42 towers in the town that can still be seen but not all of them are to be found along the town walls. The fact is, some of the town walls (but not the towers) were dismantled and moved as the town continued to expand through the Middle Ages. Hence there being a fair few isolated towers all across the town.

I confess to not making a note of the names of all the towers I passed through, by or along during my walkabout but; here are some photos anyway…

From Spitalbastel I made my way back to the Van, stopping for a beer and to telephone Vanya on the way. She wasn’t feeling any better and we decided therefore to move on the next morning. That would give the painkillers a little more time to work and, anyway, we would be returning to Rothenburg ob der Tauber some time in the not too distant future.

And next time? On the must do list is, first and foremost, an overnight stay. It is an absolute must to see and photograph the town at night (when all the day trippers have left) and to join the “Night Watchman’s Tour”. I should explain, there’s a guy called Hans Georg Baumgartner who, most nights (full details from the Tourist Office), dresses as a Medieval Night Watchman and in the best Monty Python style guides small parties around the town, all the time regaling them with facts and ribald stories of life as it used to be in Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

It is the above image of the Plomlein (not my photo) that demands Vanya and I stay overnight in Rothenburg

*Hans Georg Baumgartner (aka Night Watchman) strutting his stuff . He’s a TV personality now, having made this character famous throughout Germany.*

Forchheim (Upper Franconia), Germany September 2023 (Tour 8)

Apologies. Once again I have fallen behind with this blog. The fact is that good as they are the campsites we stayed at in Franconia had little 4G or 5G and the local wifi was generally awful. I was, therefore, unable to access my website as often as I would have liked and I simply fell out of the habit of updating the blog. I’ll endeavour to catch up over the next couple of weeks.

Okay, so let me write a little about Forchheim. It is a former royal city, now a town of some 30,000+ people, and the gateway to an area known historically as Franconian Switzerland (although it is nowhere near Switzerland). I love it and for me, it is a must-see place in Germany if ever there is one. It is one of the most picturesque towns in Franconia and has just about everything to make a short stay great:- a rich medieval history (with plenty of cobbled streets and timber framed buildings), several beautiful Baroque style churches (St Martin’s is my favourite), the River Wiesent (with it’s many canals and a “Bachla” too – more about “Bachla” later), plenty of good dining options (for any time of the day – breakfast was something else); some beautiful city parks (one housing no less than 23 traditional beer cellars); the list goes on and on and; so few tourists here (we saw none!). Yes, Forchheim is worth more than a short visit.

It’s perfect for a stroll and Vanya and I started our tour of the town on the Hauptstrasse which is wholly pedestrianised and full of small shops and cafes. We took a late breakfast in the sunshine outside a small cafe (absolutely perfect for people watching) with me going for the healthy option and Vanya going for, wait for it,”Spaghettieis”. I kid you not – spaghetti ice cream for breakfast! I described this dessert in the recent blog on Saarburg and reported then that Vanya was already hooked on the stuff.

While enjoying our food in the sunshine we couldn’t help but notice a small waterway which runs the length of the Hauptstrasse. It’s a “Bachla” and in olden days it served to help keep the town clean inasmuch that residents would simply brush their refuge into the water and watch it being washed away. Quite a few of the more discerning towns in Franconia have them. The downside of the “Bachla” is that visitors to the town can easily forget about them and fall in. Indeed, it happened while we were sitting having our food. I shouldn’t laugh but nobody was hurt.

Another interesting and very unusual feature on the Hauptstrasse is a statue of… an open door. I’m not sure of the significance of this door (which was donated by the local Rotary Club), unless it be a form of welcome to visitors, but; it is covered in carvings which I believe reflects the city’s history.

The city’s rich medieval history is reflected in the many half timbered listed buildings which are everywhere. One of the most striking is the Rathaus (the town hall) which was put together between the 14th and 16th centuries. Another is the 13th century St Katharina’s Hospital and Chapel. The oddest is a small bar, down near where the old synagogue once stood, which ‘lists’ just a little too much .

Just in front of the listing bar is the Synagogue Memorial. The synagogue itself is long gone. It was desecrated and damaged by Nazis on Kristallnacht (the 9th and 10th November 1938) and then blown up the next day. Again, you will find stolpersteine in Forchheim.

For me, the most prominent building in the town is the Catholic Church of Saint Martin. It is as beautiful inside as it is impressive from the outside. Indeed all of the churches I visited in Forchheim can be listed among the prettiest I have seen in Germany – St Martin’s; the previously mentioned Hospital Church of Saint Katharina and; last but not least, the plain looking white Marienkapelle with it’s elaborately gilded high altar.

*The second of three naves in St Martin’s*

The River Wiesent is another very obvious and very pretty feature of the town, whether it be the river itself or the “Bachla” or one of the town’s canals which are fed by the Wiesent. A peculiarity on the river are the many fish boxes scattered along it’s length through the town. At first glance I thought they were small boathouses but no; they are fish boxes in which the town’s fishmongers would keep captured carp alive and fresh until sold.

Forchheim is blessed with breweries. Four breweries currently produce beer in Forchheim but the town’s affinity towards beer doesn’t end with those four breweries. There is the Kellerwald (or ‘cellar forest’ in English). It is a forest come local park on the edge of Forchheim with numerous beer cellars built into the side of a hill. These cellars, the oldest of which dates back to the early 17th century, are where beer was once brewed but they are now used to preserve and serve finished beers at a constant cool temperature. There are no less than 23 bars selling beer from these cellars which makes for possibly the largest beer garden in the world!

*Entrances to some of the cellars – I’m not sure if these ones are still in use.*

Some of the beer cellars operate all year round while others only open during the beer cellar season which runs from April to October. Each cellar offers something unique; whether it be it’s beer, food, entertainment or setting. We stopped at the Hebendanz Keller (which belongs to one of the four breweries operating in the town and number 5 of the 23 on the above list). Hebendanz is an old brewery, founded in 1579, and they offer 6 beers including a rather nice wheat beer. Moreover, they serve that local pork dish “Schaufele” which I wrote about in my previous blog.

*Vanya? Beer? No, it was water in her mug…*

One final comment about Forchheim’s Kellerwald before we move on. Every year, towards the end of July, the town combines to hold the Annafest – A 10 day drinking and music festival which attracts more than 500,000 visitors. I could fancy that.