Month: January 2018

It was a few days ago now but late in the afternoon, feeling most impressed by Nafplio, I drove 10 km south with a view to using a Drepano campsite as a base for exploring other parts of the Argolid Peninsula.

I didn’t find the campsite I was looking for (that can happen when you don’t turn the sat-nav on) but fortune favoured me. More about that when I write about Drepano. For now it will suffice to say that I was able to use Drepano as a base and this morning I visited Epidaurus, Ermioni and Vivari.

Epidaurus is only about 30 km from Drepano and I was there by 09.00 to see the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus which is part of the Sanctuary of Asklepios archaeological site. The Theatre, built between 330-20 BC, is still used to host performances on a regular basis. It is supposedly the “finest and best preserved example of classical Greek theatre in the World” and, yes, it looks the part. More than that, it is said that “the sound of a match struck is perfectly audible to all spectators, even in the topmost row of seats… nearly 60 metres away”. I don’t know about that but, certainly the acoustics are excellent…

The Theatre of Epidaurus. That’s a US tourist down the bottom and he was talking to his partner, sitting in the front row, and I could hear them perfectly. I could almost tell you what accent he had. The acoustics are impressive

After checking out the Theatre, I spent another hour or so looking at the rest of the Sanctuary of Asklepios (including the small museum) but, for me, this site is really all about the Amphitheatre.

Other aspects of the Sanctuary of Asklepios do not compare with the smaller sanctuary the Greeks built at Butrint (see Ksamil, Albania blog), especially in terms of atmosphere, but the setting is especially beautiful on a sunny day

From Epidaurus, it was a 50 km drive to Ermioni which is a gem of a small fishing town on the southern tip of the Argolid Peninsula. Ermioni has been described as sleepy and remote because there are just two narrow twisting roads over the surrounding hills that lead in and out of the town (and there is no bus service) but, that will be the same for many coastal towns on the Peloponnese and in any event, Ermioni is served by a ferry service connecting it to Piraeus and three of the Saronic Islands (Poros, Hydra and Spetses). It wasn’t at all sleepy today.

Ermioni appeared authentically Greek (not that I am an expert) in that there was none of the usual “tourist tack” about the place and whilst I was there it seemed the whole population was out and about either working (fishing boats going in and out and the majority of restaurants and tavernas open) or; as was the case with a large number of young men on the waterfront, singing and chanting for hours whilst they meticulously covered a fishing boat in palm fronds and plants and the like in preparation for tomorrow’s Epiphany. More about that tomorrow.

… singing and chanting for hours…

My last trip of the day was the 60 km trip up to the seaside village of Vivari which sits alongside Drepano and only 3 km from my temporary base. It was recommended to me as the best place to get fresh fish. I’ll let you know about that in due course.

Meanwhile, some of the views on the journey…

Epidaurus to Ermioni

Ermioni to Vivari

Entering Vivari

Continue reading “Nafplio, Greece – Jan 2018”

After leaving Stoupa I undertook a short drive across the Mani Peninsula and parked on a beach near Gythia simply to enjoy the sunshine and plan my next move. The place I stopped wasn’t one of the most spectacular beaches I have discovered in Greece but it was clean and quiet and I had it to myself. I stayed day and night (catching up on some much needed rest) and decided Monemvassia and then Nafplio would be my next destinations.

It was an early start the next morning and I saved on washing up by pausing in Gytheio to take breakfast – proper coffee with freshly baked croissants and pastries, especially baklava (very sticky  layers of filo pastry stuffed with chopped nuts and honey). There’s not much to Gytheio but I like the place and I particularly like their baklava.

Gytheio by the harbour. There are worse places to take breakfast but…

… keep the sun to your back – Very bright early morning sun and I had left my sunglasses in the Van

I arrived at Monemvassia late morning and found the perfect parking spot on the southern quay right by the causeway across to Monemvassia Island.

Not a bad parking spot – uninterrupted views across to Momenvassia.

Monemvassia was founded in the 6th century as part of the Byzantine Empire.  It derives it’s name from “moni emvasi” meaning “single entrance” which relates to the narrow strip of land or causeway (previously a bridge) which connects the island fortress town to the mainland. It comprises an Upper and Lower Town linked by a fortified winding path. The Upper Town is built on a sloping plateau at the top of the rock and covers about 30 acres. Originally, the Upper Town was the island’s administrative and military centre but when the Turks took over it was reserved for the ruling classes.

After crossing the causeway, I tried scrambling up the nearside of the rock to the summit. Although there was some exposure, to start with it wasn’t too difficult. The island is predominantly lava rock which provides great grip but, it was impossible to see it from below, old castle walls stretch almost the entire south side of the rock and for me they were impassable. It was time to go back and try a more conventional route. No matter, I had some fun and took some good video of the climb which I will try and post once I get to grips with the video widget (and cover some of the expletives I may have used).

I retraced my steps, contoured eastwards around the hill and stumbled across the Eastern Gate above the lower town. From there it was a simple walk to the upper town.

Contouring around the hill I stumbled upon the Lower Town, just below me. Thereafter, it was an easy walk to the Upper Town 

8

Most of the Upper Town has long been destroyed. The exception is the Church of the Hagia Sophia (built in the 12th century, converted during Turkish rule into a mosque but returned to the Christian faith in 1821) which was restored inside and out in 1958

The view of the new town of Monemvassia from the Citadel summit

In Winter at least it is an easy and quick walk down the narrow winding lanes from the Upper Town to the restaurants, taverns and souvenir shops that fill the Lower Town. It was warm and sunny and after a quick tour of the Lower Town I resolved to pause and enjoy a meal before returning to the Van and my prime spot on the quay.

0

A local Rose Wine and Dolmades. Wine was fine. Nothing wrong with Dolmades either, except the vine leaves tasted like soggy cabbage. Ugh!! I loathe brassicas.

Nice warm evening. This area is nowhere near as cold and wet as the West. I bought some tonic waters earlier today. Where’s the Gin?

Nafplio tomorrow.

The last few days of 2017 were about exploring and experiencing the Messenia and Mani Peninsulas.

The road from Methoni took me over and through some beautiful mountain passes with quaint mountain villages and stunning views of the snow covered Taygetos Mountain Range and then down and around delightful coastal routes with their equally picturesque fishing villages. Kardamili, Stoupa and Gytheio on the coast stood out with Stoupa making such an impression I decided to spend New Year’s Eve there.

Mountain passes, villages & churches. The latter photo is of the Church of the Metamorphosis (strange name – transformation I can relate with – metamorphosis I’m not so sure about)

The view from where the Van was parked in Stoupa – two quite different but equally enchanting mornings 

I parked up on the quayside at Stoupa intending to stay the one night but had such a great time in one of the local tavernas that I decided to stay on for their New Year celebrations. Okay, the truth is that I drank so much on 30 December that I don’t think I was sufficiently sober to drive on the 31st. That’s really how I came to stay in Stoupa (but it was a great place to stop -very welcoming).

As I parked up on the quay outside this taverna, a band was setting up their equipment. They had a great repertoire (Cure, Queen, Bowie, Roxy Music, Snow Patrol, Lou Reid, OMD, Mamas & Papas and the Stones) and seemed to play well (getting better as the afternoon progressed and I imbibed more)

I started on beer and then the local red wine(s) but best of all was the Hot Tsipouro (being a mix of Tsipouro, honey, cloves and cinnamon brought to the boil and then left to simmer for at least 5 minutes, stirring frequently). Tasted not unlike a very alcoholic saki. I don’t remember leaving the bar but I did wake up in the Van.

The next day was about shaking the alcohol off before the New Year celebrations began. I walked to the next village along the coast, Trachila – a 15 km round trip. It was a very quiet coast road I walked along (only 2 cars passed me during the whole walk) with some fine views along the coast.

En route to Trachila – looking back towards Stoupa

I passed a great many caves cut into the cliffs on the way to Trachila. I assume they were old hermit caves

Trachila – a sleepy little village

Don’t remember too much about New Year – It was not my best but I drank and drank, watched the firework display (which saw a bloody big rocket hit the Van), crawled back to the Van and passed out.

Next day was about a hair of the dog (not many in there) and goodbye Stoupa. The last photo is of Stoupa from the road south