Vanya chose Dienville in the Aube Department of Grand Est because, she said, she wanted to stay at Camping Le Columbier (which site has a very good write up) but, there are two champagne producing areas; one in the north around Reims, Epernay and the Valle de la Marne and another to the south-east of Troyes (the Aube) which, we have been told, produces the better grapes. As we approached Dienville, I couldn’t help but think it was perhaps the Aube champagne which was luring her to this area. No matter, it is an area that is new to the both of us and, of more interest to me, steeped in Napoleonic history.
In the blog on Brienne Le Chateau I mentioned the Battle of Brienne. On 29 January 1814, while at war against the 6th Coalition, Napoleon attacked the Prussian army at Brienne and very nearly captured the Prussian General, Gebhard Leberecht Von Blucher. Three days later, having been reinforced by Austrian troops, Blucher attacked Napoleon at La Rothiere (2 kilometres east of Dienville) and forced the French Army to retreat. It could have been a great deal worse for Napoleon had one of his Generals (Etienne Gerard) not held the bridge at Dienville against Blucher’s Austrian allies. But that’s enough of Napoleon.
Camping Le Columbier is fine – a very pretty, quiet little campsite near the centre of Dienville. Dienville itself is a village with just 700 inhabitants. There’s a bar, a baker and a chemist in the village centre but not a lot else. The village grocery store closed down but there’s a small farmer’s market every Sunday morning and a Vietnames food wagon visits the village centre every Friday evening. The owner of the wagon is actually from Laos but what the hell – his Vietnamese chicken is great!
The village’s church, L’Eglise Saint Quentin, is a bit of a gem for such a small village. It has some very impressive arches and beautiful stained glass windows. It also appeared to be surprisingly well attended. Well, it was on the Sunday morning we were there.
Another impressive feature of the village is the Market Hall building which is located directly behind the church and opposite the Hotel de Ville.
On the other side of the River Aube to the village is Port Dienville. It’s a large boating lake and leisure park at the edge of the Aube Reservoir (now known as Lac d’Amance). The reservoir was created in 1990 to regulate the flow of the Aube and Seine Rivers and the port area now comprises a burgeoning marina with a few bars and restaurants, a water sport facility and a beach area. It was fairly empty while we were there and appeared a bit of a white elephant. I hope I am proven wrong in this regard because it is a pretty area and could bring great prosperity to the village.
Okay, so there’s not a great deal more I would say about Dienville but there’s absolutely nothing wrong with the village and the campsite is perfectly placed from which to explore the Aube Department. We were planning on visiting Bar sur Seine (surprise, surprise – Vanya has identified a champagne house there that she would like to visit) and I would like to visit nearby Essoyes (where the artist Renoir lived out his final years).
The drive south from Soissons to our next overnight stop at Dienville took us through Champagne (via Reims, Chalons en Champagne and the small town of Brienne Le Chateau in the Aube Department of Grand Est). We’ve decided to take our time this year, avoiding all toll roads and stopping whenever we feel like it.
I like to think we stopped at Brienne Le Chateau because of my interest in all things Napoleonic but it is more likely that we stopped so that Vanya could get to drink her first champagne of this tour. She wasn’t too happy with my driving straight past Reims and Chalons en Champagne (but, come on, she’s imbibed champagne in both those places during earlier visits).
Brienne Le Chateau is where in 1779, at the age of 9, Napoleon Bonaparte first attended military school. He lived there for 5 years until, in 1784, he transferred to the Ecole Militaire in Paris. Much later, in 1814, Brienne was also the scene of one of his last battles. The town simply had to be worth a visit and I wasn’t disappointed.
Much of the old military school was destroyed during the French Revolution but in 1969 a small museum, dedicated to Napoleon’s rise through the ranks, was established in what remains of the building. It is tiny but it’s a fascinating place to visit (full of interesting records and memorabilia) and a few of his battles (including Austerlitz, Borodino and of course Brienne) can be followed on computers in the museum. My visit to the museum was enhanced by a group of Napoleonic enthusiasts role playing outside the museum. He is wholly revered in this part of France and it is small wonder that for a time, between 1849 and 1880, Brienne Le Chateau was renamed Brienne Napoleon.
Posing with a Cantiniere?Posing with a Beanie?
There’s not a great deal to see and do in Brienne but the museum is an absolute must and the Chateau Brienne (where Napoleon stayed during 1814) is perhaps also worth a visit. Take time out, too, to look at the Hotel de Ville (the Town Hall). It is quite unlike any others I have seen in France in that it doesn’t display the usual “Liberty, Equality, Fraternity” strap line across the front of the building. Instead it displays a face of the Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte (and, if that isn’t enough, there’s a statue of Napoleon as a boy outside the front of the building). Vive L’Empereur!
We travelled little more than 60 miles today to Soissons; still in the Hauts de France Region but in the Aisne Department. This area was once part of Picardy. Soissons sits on the River Aisne and is one of the oldest towns in France. It was the scene of much fighting between various Gallic tribes and the Romans under Julius Caesar. Indeed, there’s an Asterix Theme Park just down the road from Soissons where “Asterix and Obelix (continue to) fight the dastardly Romans”.
Sadly, this part of France and Soissons in particular has witnessed a great deal of war and suffering over the ages, most especially during World War I. Soldiers from Great Britain and the Commonwealth, France and Germany were entrenched in and around the town for much of the First World War and some major battles (the three Battles of the Aisne) were fought in the immediate area. The ‘First Battle of the Aisne’ was an allied counter offensive immediately following the Battle of the Marne in 1914 which saw the start of trench warfare. The ‘Second’ in 1917 was a more bloody affair with France and Germany suffering respectively 271,000 and 163,000 casualties in just 12 days of battle. The ‘Third’ was the German ‘Spring Offensive of 1918’ (also known as the Kaiserschlacht) which was finally repulsed after some 5 weeks heavy fighting but not before the British lost 236,000 men, the French lost 92,000 and Germany lost 348,000. There are numerous French, German & British cemeteries and memorials throughout Aisne and at least two monuments in Soissons itself (the first of which is a plaque in the cathedral honouring more than one million British dead from the First World War who are buried in France and the second being the Monument des Anglais which lists the names of 3,387 British & Commonwealth soldiers killed in Soissons while repelling the German Spring Offensive and who have no known grave.
But, enough of war and on to Soissons itself. There’s enough to see in the town to keep most people happy for a day or two. I was intent on visiting most of the major sights, especially Soissons Cathedral and the Abbaye de Saint Jean des Vignes but; I’d also read about the street art of a certain Christian Guemy (aka C215) and was keen to track some of his works down.
I started in the town’s tourist office. A lovely lady provided me with a map identifying all the must see buildings in Soissons. She was unable find a map of Guemy’s street art and suggested I wait for her colleague to return but, after enduring a five minute monologue on haricot beans (it seems Soissons is famous for it’s extra large white haricot beans) I decided to leave and find the paintings without a map – a treasure hunt of sorts.
With the town’s Cathedral of Saint-Gervais & Saint-Protais backing on to Place de Fernand Marquigny, where the tourist office is located; my next port of call was always going to be Soissons Cathedral and it is well worth a visit. It dates back to the 12th century and, except for one tower being missing, it is almost an exact copy of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. It is possible to climb to the top of the cathedral’s tower for views over Soissons but, this once, I didn’t bother. The cathedral contains a number of quite exceptional paintings; one of which, “The Adoration of the Shepherds”, is recognised at least in part as being the work of Pierre Paul Rubens and that kept me occupied for a while…
Looking every bit a cathedral itself and within easy walking distance of Soissons Cathedral (actually, almost everything within Soissons is within easy walking distance of the cathedral) are the ruins of the 11th century Abbaye de Saint-Jean des Vignes. This once magnificent abbey was ransacked by the Huguenots in 1567 and turned into a stable but it was the French Revolution which saw the abbey forever closed…
My favourite photo of the Abbey of St John of the Vines is one I took from the Place de la Republique with it’s monument to the dead of the Franco-Prussian War (the Monument aux Morts de 1870) in the foreground…
I checked out other “must see” buildings in Soissons, including L’Abbaye Saint Leger, L’Hotel de Ville, L’Eglise Saint-Pierre and the Monument des Anglais (which was closed off), but my primary interest after visiting the Cathedral and the Abbey of Saint-John was the street artwork of Christian Guemy.
Christian Guemy has been described as France’s answer to Banksy and there are examples of his work all over the world – London, Paris, Barcelona, Rome, New York, etc and even Aberdeen, Brighton and Morocco. He uses stencils and his primary interests are cats and portraits (more often than not of people that society appears to have forgotten e.g. the homeless, beggars, the aged, etc) but; in Soissons it has been directed more towards individuals with some form of connection to the town. I suspect he accepted a commission from the local council and/or tourist office.
His work is not always easy to find. Some of his creations will fill the side of a building and are easily spotted but others are small and hidden away in the most unusual places. Those I photographed below are just some of 25 he has left dotted around Soissons. I found a dozen or so.
La Dame de SoissonsCamille ClaudelPierre Paul Rubens…… on Place Mantoue
Vanya and I walked back into town during the evening to a small creperie (Le Corsaire) I had stumbled across on Rue de la Banniere. It was tiny but the welcome was warm and friendly (especially towards Nala and Beanie) and we enjoyed it immensely. I ordered the ‘Corsaire Special’ Galette as an entree and followed it with the best ever crepe for dessert (caramelised apples with cinnamon ice cream and flambeed with a dark rum). I really cannot recall what Vanya ordered probably because I’d knocked back a jug of delicious but seriously strong Bretagne Cider.
Le Corsaire Galette…… and a truly great cider.Caramelised apples with cinnamon icecream and flambeed rum – wonderful
The stroll back through town to our Van took us past the cathedral and a couple more Guemy creations (Vanya was picking them out quicker than I ever did) and, hand on heart, I can say we both very much appreciated Soissons at night. Peaceful and typically French.
Yaaay!! It’s 9 April 2025 and we’re on the road again. That’s Vanya, Nala, Beanie and myself. After a quick breakfast in Brighton we finished loading the Van and set off via the A27 for the P&O Ferry at Dover. It was an event free journey (I’m not complaining) with surprisingly quiet roads and we arrived in good time for the 11.30 ferry to Calais.
“Behave yourself”“Are we there yet?“
The channel crossing itself was also uneventful (and very smooth) and within two hours we were on the road towards the tiny village (just 400 inhabitants) of Feuilleres.
Feuilleres is located on the Somme River some 30 kilometres east of Amiens in the Somme Department of Hauts de France. Vanya chose the place solely for it’s campsite (Camping du Chateau et de l’Oseraie); it being about as far south as I wanted to drive the first day out and with options to travel in all directions thereafter.
I have always found the first day of a tour very tiring and while I took time during the afternoon to explore Feuilleres and the nearby town of Peronne, I was happiest when settled down in Feuilleres with a glass of wine and some of the local bread and cheese (and not forgetting a half kilo of large, very delicious prawns which Vanya acquired during our drive south).
There is very little to Feuilleres – a small church, a restaurant-bar (closed) and the River Somme with plenty of fishing ponds – but, it served us well for the first night.
There is a considerably more to Peronne although, I wouldn’t go too far out of my way to visit the town. It was captured by German troops early in WWI and the town and surrounding area was the scene of several very bloody battles (including the three battles of the Somme) before being liberated by Australian soldiers in 1918. More than 90% of the town was destroyed during the war, including the 13th century Chateau de Peronne. The Chateau was restored in the 1970’s, renamed the ‘Historial’ and now serves as a Museum to the Great War.
The Historial now…… and as it was when liberated
I’m keeping this blog brief. On to Soissons in the morning.
Ambleteuse is an interesting little town on the Opal Coast between Boulogne and Calais. We were staying in the neighbouring village of Audresselles but I took time out to visit Ambleteuse during the afternoon.
The place is steeped in history having been one of the ports from which Julius Caesar was said to have embarked from on his unsuccessful invasion of Britain in 54 BC (not that it was called Britain in those days). The Saxons also invaded from here and Napoleon Bonaparte stationed troops in the area in readiness for his planned (but ultimately aborted) invasion of our island. Indeed, General Claude JA Legrand, commanding Napoleon’s 3rd Infantry Division, stayed in Ambleteuse’s 17th century fort (one of Vauban’s creations) at the mouth of the River Slack in anticipation of the invasion. From what I saw of the fort, he couldn’t have enjoyed the most comfortable of stays.
Fort Ambleteuse
The fort has been destroyed and rebuilt on more than one occasion, the last time being after it was occupied by German troops during WWII. During the summer months it opens as a museum but, if it’s museums you want, there is a WWII museum at the edge of Ambleteuse on the road to Audresselles. It is unlike most of the WWII museums that have mushroomed across Normandy in that, except for some artillery pieces and a Sherman tank placed outside, it’s exhibits are mostly confined to the uniforms and accessories of the combatants.
The beaches in Ambleteuse and Audresselles cannot be considered among the best along the Opal Coast, being narrow and stony. The seafronts in both places are also different from others in Normandy in that there are neither shops nor restaurant-bars along the small promenades; just houses and the odd WWII bunker built by the Germans in anticipation of an Allied Invasion near the Pas de Calais.
The elegant Eglise Saint Michel is definitely worth a visit. I cannot tell you much about this church but, inside, it is stunningly simple…I like it.
To finish, I’m reproducing just one of the photos I took in Audresselles and that was along the coast towards Les Deux Caps; Cap Blanc Nez (made of chalk) and Cap Gris Nez (made of clay). These are the closest points in France to the British Coast and numerous German artillery batteries were sited there during WWII to fire upon Dover. In fact, during the course of WWII almost 10,000 buildings in and around Dover were damaged by shellfire from these batteries with more than 200 civilians being killed and hundreds more injured. Looks quite peaceful now, doesn’t it?
A view along the coast from Audresselles
We‘re booked on the P&O ferry to Dover in the morning. Tour 10 ends here. Roll on the next one!!
A visit to Yport invariably signifies that we are nearing the end of our tour. There will be another stop nearer Calais on our last night but we choose Yport because we can then visit our favourite restaurant in Normandy (Le Nautique) and the dogs can be seen by their vet in nearby Fecamp – it’s a legal requirement that a vet feed the dogs ‘tenia’ tablets before they can re-enter the UK.
Yport (with Fecamp in the distance)
We spent our last Monday morning in France down by the beach in Yport having a pleasant brunch on the terrace outside Le Petit Saint Pierre. The afternoon was about visiting Fecamp; getting the dogs seen by the vet and; then stopping at the large Leclerc at Saint Leonards to top up Vanya’s stock of Cremant.
Le Nautique is closed Mondays but we stopped by as they opened on the Tuesday lunchtime and reserved a table for the evening. Everything went smoothly.
Fecamp…… the Benedictine Palace
Tuesday night was all about Le Nautique and the best huitres (oysters) and the best Moules (mussels) in Normandy, all served with the local dry cider and a bottle of Muscadet. The proprietor remembered us from when we last visited during the Spring. No one forgets Beanie and Nala, especially since Nala has been in her ‘walking wheels’. He was working in the kitchen that day but his son (who usually cooks) was happy to look after us and, as always, the welcome, the service and the food was outstanding.
We look forward to returning next Spring. Meanwhile, we had one more night in France at a place called Ambleteuse in the Hauts de France Region.
We were on our way to Yport for a couple of days (a) to enjoy a meal at our favourite restaurant in Normandy (Le Nautique) and; (b) to stock up on Vanya’s Cremant before catching the ferry home later in the week and; (c) to pop in on the Vets in Fecamp so that the dogs can be made ready for their return to the UK. First, however, Vanya wanted to revisit Honfleur.
I have been to Honfleur a couple of times before. I like the place and was happy to return for a third visit. Vanya on the other hand has been once before and her reason for wanting to return was, get this, to see if she still doesn’t like the place!?! How is a man ever going to understand a woman when she exercises that kind of logic?
The only downside I can see to Honfleur is that it now attracts huge numbers of tourists (especially with river cruises multiplying as they are) and consequently the restaurants charge silly prices but keep that comment in perspective; I’m probably getting maudlin because it is almost going home time. Vanya’s view of Honfleur has definitely been tainted by the large number of tourists. She thinks they have ripped the soul out of the town. I’ll not argue with her about that.
I’m not going to write much about Honfleur today (nearly everything I could say about the place is captured in previous blog entries – see Tours 2 and 3) but I will post a few more photos, if only to show the town hasn’t changed much in recent times. It is still very pleasing, especially down by the harbour.
It’s a very pretty harbour…… and a great place to people watch…… or paint
We ate a very expensive meal down on the harbour (but you pay for the view there as much as anything) and then we did a short wander before returning to the Van and pressing on to Yport.
Les Moulieres d’Honfleur
Les Moulieres (the Mussel Pickers) made us smile. The Normandy Coast is very much the place for mussels. Bring them on!
So, we’re on our way home to Brighton. Jumieges sits on the northern bank of the Seine River between Le Havre and Rouen and is one of the last stops on our way to Calais and then the UK. We’ll stop at Yport for a couple of nights (as is our custom towards the end of any trip which takes in France) and there will be another final overnight stop closer to Calais (Ambleteuse perhaps) but with 4,000 miles completed during the approach to Jumieges, Tour 10 is almost over.
I’m not sure if it is big enough to take the Van but, while out walking along the River Seine, I stumbled across a small ferry, the Heurteauville Ferry, which crosses the Seine (near Pont -Audemar) to Jumieges. I’ll check the ferry out next time we pass here because it will shave at least 30 kilometres off the journey we made today. It will also save on bridge tolls because the ferry is free.
Heurteauville Ferry……and the River Seined
Jumieges is renowned for it’s abbey or, to be more accurate, it’s abbeys. The original Abbaye de Saint Pierre de Jumieges was founded in 654 by Philibert (later Saint Philibert of Jumieges) and quickly grew into an enormous and prosperous monastery; so much so that it housed more than 900 monks by the time Philibert was succeeded as Abbot by Aichardus. The abbey was destroyed during the 9th century by marauding vikings but rebuilt on an even grander scale by Norman dukes (and with William the Conqueror attending the consecration of the huge Romanesque style Church of Notre Dame in 1067).
The abbey suffered a turbulent time in the following centuries, first by the invading English during the 100 Years War and then by the Huegenots during France’s Religious Wars but; it was the French Revolution which caused most damage and saw the Abbey plundered and closed. Worse was to follow in the aftermath of the revolution with much of the church and it’s surrounding buildings being torn down for the stone.
The ruin now dominates the town…
The abbey was saved from complete destruction during the 19th century by Victor Hugo (as much as anyone) who raised interest popular interest in the ruins when he described them as “the most beautiful ruins in France”. It wasn’t until 2007 however that the Department of Seine Maritime acquired the ruins (together with 15 acres of parkland) and set about opening them to the public as an historical attraction. The abbey complex will forever remain a ruin but there’s more than enough left to recognise and appreciate it’s former glory.
There is one other building in Jumieges which, while not as grand as the abbey once was, is worth a special mention. It is the 11th/12th century parish Church of Saint Valentine which was built at the request of the abbey monks because they didn’t want to be disturbed by the parishioners. It’s one of the more unusual churches I have seen and is full of character and surprises (the altar, lectern and eagle were taken from the abbey and the church holds numerous stone and/or wood carvings of various Saints – including Anne, Catherine, Margaret, Sebastian, Stephen, Nicholas and of course Valentine). Although a little tired (to be expected of an 11th/12th century parish church) the church is remarkably well preserved. Unlike the abbey complex, it was left intact during the French Revolution.
A few paintings adorn the walls inside Saint Valentine’s; one of the more interesting being a 16th century creation entitled ‘A Procession in Honour of Saint Valentine’. In this painting, a plague of rats can be seen running ahead of the procession. This relates to an event which is said to have taken place in Jumieges during the Middle Ages and which was very much linked with Saint Valentine. Legend has it that the head of Valentine (he was beaten and beheaded for proclaiming his faith in Rome during AD280) ended up, hundreds of years later, as a relic in the abbey in Jumieges. One year a plague of rats invaded the village and began to devour the crops, thus posing a threat of famine. When a monk living in the abbey complex saw Saint Valentine three times in his dreams, it was decided the reliquary containing the Saint’s head should be carried in a procession around the village. This was carried out and, to everyone’s astonishment, the rats gathered and followed the procession to the River Seine; then jumped in and drowned. So it was that Saint Valentine became the saviour of the parish. There’s not many people outside of Jumieges know that.
L’Eglise Saint ValentinEglise St Valentin – full of characterEglise St Valentin – full of characterEglise St Valentin – full of characterEglise St Valentin – full of characterEglise St Valentin – full of characterProcession in Honour of St Valentin
Leaving aside the abbey and the church, there’s little else to Jumieges but the locals couldn’t have been more friendly. Vanya and I had a little wander with the dogs and I was invited by some locals to go apple picking as part of the annual Fete de Pommes but that was about it.
Oh! There is also a supposedly good Michelin recommended restaurant in the village, Auberge des Ruines, but it being a Sunday and this being France… Instead I ate what can only be described as a deconstructed Shish Kebab cooked by the campsite’s food wagon (and I thoroughly enjoyed it – Well done Camping La Foret).
We were on our way from Merville Franceville to Jumieges and paused at the tiny village (some 200 inhabitants) of Beuvron en Auge. I’d been looking at a list of the plus beaux villages de France and noticed that Beuvron en Auge was on the way to Jumieges and just a few miles from Merville Franceville. Given the village’s history and beauty it had to be worth a stop.
Beuvron en Auge is part of the former fiefdom of the renowned Harcourt family. Some of the family accompanied William the Conqueror across the English Channel and after the Battle of Hastings in 1066 received grants of land and titles in England. The majority remained in France (at Beuvron in the Calvados Department and Olonde in the Manche Department) and they became an established formed part of the French nobility but; links between the two branches of the family stayed very much alive; as is demonstrated by the fact that in 1346 John IV of Harcourt, loyal to the King of France, was killed fighting the English at the Battle of Crecy where his brother Geoffrey of Harcourt was Marshall of England and one of the leaders of the victorious English army.
There is little left in Beuvron of the Harcourt family these days. Indeed all that remains of Castle Harcourt is a small mound on which it once stood. However, the remainder of the village is brimming with character and fully deserving of it’s ‘plus beau village de France’ status. There are a couple of buildings in a village which stand out amongst all the others. The first is a large 15th century half timbered Manor House located on the corner of the Avenua de la Gare and the Rue des Haras
The Manor House in Beuvron en Auge
The other is the covered market hall at the centre of the village which fits in so well with the 16th and 17th century half timbered houses surrounding it. This particular building was erected in 1975 and there is quite a story behind it.
The original 19th century covered market was unsafe and demolished in 1958. The railway station followed in 1964 and with that came a marked decline in the village’s population as residents were forced to leave in search of employment. The age profile at the time was such that a further significant decline in population was inevitable (and this has proved to be the case) but; there are signs now that the decline has been arrested and this is largely due to the efforts of Michel Vermughen who was Mayor of Beuvron between 1971 and 1996. He took action to ensure the future prosperity of the village by means of, amongst other things, some very effective town planning.
A new motorway being built some way to the north of the village (the A13) further threatened the village but, perhaps with his eye on tourism, the Mayor appealed to the State and various local authorities for assistance in revitalising the ailing village. He sought to regenerate, improve and better promote the already attractive Norman village by (a) restoring the facades of the villages’ many typically Norman half timbered buildings (and to this end enlisted the support of a student specialising in civil architecture and Norman heritage, Yves Lescrouard, to work with the community on restoring the many dilapidated buildings) and (b) sympathetically regenerating the village centre with a ‘new’ covered market hall using traditional building methods and materials (particularly from old barns being pulled down because they were in the path of the new motorway). In this latter regard some 75,000 roof tiles were removed from a ruined barn in Beuzeville to cover the new market. Such initiatives helped transform the village into the best example of a typical Norman village as could be found in the Calvados Department and it become one the first communes in France to secure ‘plus beau village de France’ status.
Beuvron en Auge has been transformed into a most picturesque village and on a fine sunny day I cannot imagine a more perfect place than the village centre to simply sit and chill with a cream coffee or a glass of the local dry cider (or even a calvados for that matter) but, it doesn’t end there. Peaceful as the village may be, there’s a pleasant buzz about the place, a freshness and vitality. It comes, I suspect, as a result of the village being rebuilt and having a future, no matter that it is through tourism.
Market Hall (to the left) on Place Michel Vermughen Creperie on Place Michel Vermughen
No surprise that Place de La Halle in the village centre was subsequently renamed Place Michel Vermughen and a plaque carrying his motto “renover dans la tradition” (renovate in tradition) was struck to commemorate the vision and energy of the former mayor. What an example Vermughen sets for Brighton and all those other bungling councils across Britain.
I mentioned previously that just 200 people live in the village now but that number includes the world famous artist David Hockney and his partner. It is perhaps fitting therefore that I finish this entry with a copy of a painting of his which I believe is from his “The Arrival of Spring”. I very much like it.
In Northern Europe, no matter the time of the year, it is often difficult getting into a campsite halfway through a weekend. This is especially true of popular sites near the coast. In high season there are so many more camper vans on the road chasing a finite number of places. In the low season many campsites close and, at least during weekends, competition for the reduced number of places increases. As a result, as the weekend approaches, we look to book a place in advance for the Friday and Saturday night and this is how it came about that we were destined to stay a whole weekend on a site in Merville-Franceville. One night would ordinarily have been enough.
Nothing against Merville-Franceville, it is a pleasant friendly family resort with a good selection of restaurant-bars and a fair amount going on in the area… if it is a warm sunny day in the high season and if you are interested in the D Day landings. We were out of season, the weather was cold and, unlike me, Vanya has absolutely no interest in D Day. That being the case I was delighted Vanya had booked us into ‘Camping Seasonova Le Point de Jour’. It’s a well appointed campsite with direct access to a sandy beach and just 15 minutes walk from the small town. Most important, it has a couple of tame goats wandering the site which were always going to keep Vanya amused while I went off exploring.
The local beachThey were happyShe was happyOur Van was in the adjoining plot
After a lazy morning playing with the dogs on the beach, Vanya repaired to the Van to check out the goats and I set off towards the town to check out the local sights and find a decent restaurant for the evening.
I started with a walk through the town and along the beach to the River Orne. I could see Ouistreham across the estuary and thought to cross the river via the Pegasus Bridge (the scene of a WWII Battle on D-Day) but the bridge is a few kilometres inland at the small village of Benouville and “a bridge too far” (blame Cornelius Ryan for my pun). Instead I made my way back into Merville-Franceville and then inland along Avenue Alexandre de Lavergne to the WWII Merville Battery.
Looking across the Orne Estuary to Ouistreham
I should perhaps explain that, as part of the D Day landings during WWII, various British Airborne forces were ordered as part of Operation Tonga to seal off the eastern end of a 50 mile long invasion area that would later be known as the Sword, Juno, Gold, Omaha and Utah Beaches. Sword was the most easterly of the beaches and Utah the most westerly. Amongst other things, Operation Tonga required almost 200 glider troops under Major John Howard to seize and hold the Benouville Bridge (later renamed the Pegasus Bridge, after the winged horse of Greek Mythology and the military patch worn by British Airborne units) and a further 700 paratroopers under Lieutenant Colonel Terence Otway to parachute into France near Merville-Franceville and neutralise a German artillery battery located there. The size of the concrete emplacements housing the German artillery suggested the guns themselves were large calibre (150mm), with an estimated range of about 8 miles (13 km), which would threaten the impending landings all along Sword Beach which stretched west from Ouistreham.
Major Howard’s part of the operation (to seize the bridge at Benouville) was a complete success with 5 gliders landing within 50 yards of the target and the bridge being taken just 10 minutes later with very few casualties (two British soldiers were killed, Lieutenant Den Brotheridge and Lance Corporal Fred Greenhaigh). The bridge was held until relieved by Lord Lovat’s Commandos and elements of the 7th Parachute Battalion. Ironically, one of the officers amongst the reinforcements was an aspiring actor, Lieutenant Richard Todd of 7 Para, who would subsequently play the part of Major John Howard in the film ‘The Longest Day’. Not many people know that.
Colonel Otway’s mission got off to the worst possible start with a bombing raid on the Merville Battery completely missing the target. In truth, the complex was never going to be an easy target from the air; comprising as it did, an underground command post, four gun casemates with 6 foot thick steel reinforced walls, a concrete trench system with ancillary bunkers to accommodate men and ammunition and a 20mm anti-aircraft gun. Worse still, 9 Parachute Battalion were dropped all over the countryside and; if that wasn’t enough, one of five gliders carrying essential equipment lost it’s tow rope and came down in the English Channel (killing everyone on board) and the remaining gliders were scattered and landed off target in flooded marshes. With the loss of the gliders, the assault force lost it’s anti-tank weapons, mortars, heavy machine guns, ammunition, demolition equipment, mine detectors and marking tapes, etc.
I should have mentioned earlier that the Merville Battery fortifications also included multiple heavy machine gun positions, an anti-tank ditch and mine fields but, even so, at 04.30 hours Colonel Otway attacked the Merville Battery complex – with just 150 men. The following plaque is be seen at the site which now forms a WWII museum:-
The attack on the Merville Battery was by no means a complete success. The guns were found to be of a lower calibre than expected. Some of the German garrison locked themselves in their bunkers and the victorious paratroopers didn’t have the weapons to clear them. Moreover, the paras didn’t have the demolition equipment to permanently disable all the guns before moving on to their next objective and two of the guns were subsequently restored to active service. However, none of the above detracts from the incredible bravery of the men of 9 Parachute Battalion – Utrinque Paratus.
I make no apology for devoting so much of this particular blog to the battles at Benouville and Merville. D day is a major feature of this Region’s history but, that is enough about the war for now.
Normandy is one of the 13 administrative Regions of France (there are another five outside of the country) and Normandy has long had it’s own quite unique culture and traditions. Principal amongst them is gastronomy and, especially, seafood (not to mention the five “C’s”, being camembert, cream, crepes, cider and calvados). I was charged by Vanya with finding a decent seafood restaurant in Merville for at least one meal out. I found Le France on Avenue Houdard.
Le France comes with mixed reviews and is not cheap but we enjoyed it. The welcome was warm, the service was attentive and the seafood was very good. I would recommend it.
Le France RestaurantTasty OystersThe biggest profiterole
I’d recommend Merville Franceville too and as for Nala and Beanie…
