And so we came to San Francisco Bay on the west coast of Galicia. The nearest town of any size is Muros but we were parked a few kilometres further west, just outside of Louro, at Camping a Vouga. It is rare that I make comment about any of the campsites we stay at but both Vanya and I were really impressed by just about everything at Camp a Vouga – in no particular order: it’s location on the beach, it’s views, the cleanliness of the site and facilities, the warm and friendly staff and, let’s not forget, the food and wine in the restaurant – all were superb.
The first photo from Camping a Vouga was this one along the beach to the west. The next day would take me on over and around that headland in the background
After that first afternoon and evening in Camping a Vouga, during which we took the dogs down to the beach and then enjoyed an absolutely great evening in the campsite restaurant, we decided to stay on for a while and use it as a base to explore the surrounding area.
The dogs absolutely loved the sea and once you were in, the water temperature was just about bearable
Of course, Vanya was never going to go any deeper no matter how much cajoling she received from the rest of us
The views from the campsite restaurant both at the beginning of the evening and towards the end were great…
… the local Albarino White and the Ribera Red were exceptional (and although Vanya started with Freixenet she very quickly switched to the Albarino)…
… the free tapas (local ham loaded with prune), the Scallops and the Prawns of which we had a full bowl each were all thoroughly enjoyable
… but the desserts (mine was mandarin ice cream) were superb
The next day I went walkabouts. I had no plans to go anywhere in particular. I simply started walking along the road to the west through the nearby village of Louro and then, seeing a fair sized stretch of water to my south (a lake), I beat a path through a thick mess of green scrub to get to it. The stretch of water was as much a marsh as a lake but it proved to be a wetland for birds and it had a great many residents of all shapes and sizes. I sat for ages just watching them.
The Wetland
Eventually I moved on. I found a walkers trail by the side of the wetland which led me over some sand dunes to a long wide empty beach that was the other side of the headland I had seen from our campsite. The setting was beautiful – a bright blue sea, fine white sand and a thick dark green background that was the scrub around the lake. But then, horror of horrors, I noticed I was not alone. There were only three of them but they were all nude and they were all men. I had stumbled upon a naturist beach! Call me a prude if you like but I couldn’t handle it and promptly set off towards that headland which would take me back to Camping a Vouga. There will have been easier paths back but none as quick as the direct course I followed.
The path that would lead me to the sand dunes and a last look back at the wetland
The sand dunes
The beach
There’s a lighthouse on the headland and over there across the bay is Camping a Vouga
… and back to the relative calm of our local beach with the dogs
So, having decided to stay on at Camping a Vouga and use it as a base to explore further afield, the next day we took a day out to visit Finisterre and Muxia.
We decided to visit Ourense next although it was only ever going to be a short visit. The route we chose took us down the Canon de Sil. Oh, but I could do that journey every day. Some of the views were stunning. There was one viewpoint at the top of the canyon which I didn’t see until it was too late and then; we were sailing past it with no possible turning point for many miles. Even so, I would have continued until we could turn around and drive back up to the viewpoint but Vanya wouldn’t have it. She was almost on the floor having kittens at the thought of our going back up.
Entering Ourense we found a quiet aire, at which to overnight, on the north side of the city next to the fire station. The aire suited us because it is only two to three kilometres from Ourense’s old town (the Casco Vello) where we could find something to eat and drink. We had googled where to find the best tapas and discovered that the best restaurants are on either Lepanto Street (Casa Tonita for its Poached Eggs), San Miguel Street (Paris for it’s Garlic & Oil Potatoes and Ocugumalo for it’s Mushrooms & Prawns) and Hornos Street (O’Souto for it’s Mashed Potato & Beef and Atarazana for it’s Scallops). All three streets are to be found by the Cathedral which would serve as a great reference point and perhaps provide for some spiritual fulfilment too – only joking Vanya!
We locked the Van up and set off in the direction of the Cathedral, crossing the Mino river by the Ponte Vella (the High Bridge); otherwise known as the old Roman Bridge except, it is not an old Roman bridge. It is a medieval bridge with five arches that was simply built on the site of an earlier Roman bridge but; why ruin a good story with historical facts? It is now a pedestrian bridge and it provides fantastic views across to another of the eight bridges in Ourense which cross the Mino river – the Puenta Milenio (the Millennium Bridge). Our route to and from the old town took us under the Millennium Bridge and, for such a modern structure, it really is something quite different and therefore rather special.
The “Roman” BridgeThe Millennium Bridge
It proved easy to find Catedral de Ourense (or Catedral do San Martino to give the cathedral it’s proper name) and I was pleasantly surprised by it’s very simple Gothic design and unusual octagonal lantern tower. I don’t know what it looks like inside. As has so often been the case during this tour, the doors were locked. We actually saw more of one other very impressive looking church in the old town, the Iglesia de Santa Eufamia, when we stopped just short of the Cathedral for a drink.
Iglesia de Santa EufamiaThe Ourense Cathedral
We hadn’t completed a circuit of the Cathedral before we found ourselves on Hornos Street and, almost immediately thereafter, on Lepanto Street. Scallops were a non starter because Atarazana was closed but the other bars on our list were open and there were plenty more to choose from. The approach here was different to Logrono. In Ourense, one sits at tables outside the tapas bar and are served by waiters whereas in Logrono one invariably stood outside and ordered food and drink through windows or across bars. This being so, in Ourense there is neither the same movement between bars nor as much interaction between diners and staff as was the case in Logrono. For me it wasn’t bad; it was just different. I think Vanya favours the more informal and friendly approach we experienced in Logrono but, we both very much enjoyed our evening in Ourense and we particularly loved the Tempura Prawns at Vinoteca Taperia. One final observation regarding our tapas evening in Ourense, Ourense still holds with the tradition of providing at least one free tapas with drinks (twice we were given free tuna empanadas). You don’t often see that nowadays in the larger towns.
We do love our tapas
Okay, so I found the Cathedral and I found the tapas bars. Unfortunately, I failed to find any of the thermal baths which are dotted all over the city but, the fact is, my sense of direction didn’t stretch that far and couldn’t without my first imbibing an Estrella Galician beer, a glass of Ribeiro red wine and a few Albarino white wines (and by then it was too late). Next time? Meanwhile, the Chavasqueira – Outariz Pools were the closest to where we were parked, being on the northern bank of the river and west of the Millenium Bridge.
And there’s a nearby spa with the Millennial Bridge in the background. Oh, so close. Sorry Van! (Not my photo)
After we had taken our fill of tapas and the Albarino, we had just enough time and energy for a last look around Ourense’s lanes before heading back to the Van and, in my case, a wee dram. It was a great evening.
From Riano we set off down the N621 with no set destination in mind except that ultimately we would visit Santiago de Compostela before turning south towards Portugal and; we wanted to visit one or other of Astorga or Ponferrada on the way. We were in no real hurry.
The journey out of the foothills of the Picos de Europa took us deep into Castile y Leon and through wholly unexpected and rich looking arable farmland where corn and sunflowers were in abundance. The sunflowers were in full bloom and beautiful.
Once past Leon I started feeling somewhat tired of driving (I think sunflowers do that to you – Certainly, they have a soporific effect on me) and Vanya found us a suitable campsite in Trabadelo where we could overnight and simply chill. Trabadelo is a little beyond Ponferrada but we could always retrace our steps the next morning – and we did just that.
Beanie made another friend in Trabadelo
Ponferrada is another stop on the Camino Frances to Santiago – I’m going to have to do a Camino next year – the only question is which one – there are so many. The historic section of the town is overlooked by an equally historic looking castle, the Castillo de los Templarios (Castle of the Knights Templar) which was completed in 1178 to protect pilgrims walking the Camino (although it has been added to many times since then). It’s impressive; a proper knight’s castle and; in it’s day was one of the largest in Spain.
We did a complete circuit of the castle and wandered the old town for a while but didn’t stay too long after that. We had finally made up our mind as to our next stop on our way to Santiago and it was the very exciting looking city of Ourense over in Galicia.
The journey south through the Picos de Europa was full of beautiful views (mountains, gorges, rivers & forests) all wasted on Vanya. She really cannot cope with hairpin mountain roads and even the entrance to our campsite included a steep winding ascent (although nothing like the ascent at Lekeitio).
However, upon arrival and seeing the views from our spot in the camp site she began to change her mind about mountain views. The view down over Riano with the reservoir and mountain range behind it is as picturesque as anything we have seen. We immediately decided to stay at least two nights.
That’s the view of Riano from where we were parked – the first photo was taken immediately we arrived; the second after the sun had gone down
The next morning, after I had walked the dogs up the hill behind where we were parked, Vanya and I strolled down to the town for a look see.
The views in all directions were wonderful
Built as recently as the 1980’s, Riano (or New Riano to use it’s proper name) is one of the the youngest towns in Castile y Leon. The old Riano was demolished when a number of rivers in the area were dammed. New Riano is a well laid out little town of some 450 people and is now almost entirely given over to tourism. A pretty pedestrian area and market place has been built around the new church and it is filled with interesting features reflecting different aspects of life in the mountains and, of course, the local wildlife (which includes brown bears and wolves). These features presented Vanya with plenty of photo opportunities for Beanie.
The new church, the Iglesia Parroquial de Santa Agueda
Beanie posing in front of a Chozo de Pastores (not dissimilar to an Italian Trullo), a wooden Leones Horreos (for storing grain and/or vegetables) and a water fountain
The evening we spent eating tapas and drinking Asturian Cider in the friendly camp site restaurant and bar while planning what to do and where to go the next day. We had already decided to go on a boat trip around the reservoir but that was as far as we got. The fact is, I was enjoying the apple cider and Vanya was enjoying the local wine.
I tried a couple of ciders but this won hands down. Tasted like a dry apple juice, very smooth and no kick (until you stood up)
The bar also had a wide range of Orujo – some other time.
The following morning we were up (relatively) bright and early for the boat trip. This one hour trip provided some fine photo opportunities but otherwise was a bit of a disappointment.
Of more interest was our subsequent walk along the side of the reservoir. We were keen to take a last look at the town (especially the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora del Rosario) and as we made our way along the reservoir path we came across a number of photo boards with some information and pictures about old Riano – very sobering…
Three of many photo boards by the reservoir designed to inform the reader about old Riano.
…It is a tragic story. A plan was made during the 1960’s to dam three rivers in the area (the Esla, the Yuso and the Retuerto) so as to create a large reservoir for both irrigation purposes and to generate hydro electric power. The decision would ultimately impact on the population of seven villages (Anciles, Escaro, Huelde, La Puerta, Pedrosa la Rey, Riano and Salio) and various historical structures including the old Roman Bridge of Valdearana and the hermitage of (La Ermita de) San Bartolo. Over the ensuing years the local population showed intense resistance to the plan (which included the suicide of Simon Pardo) but to no avail. By 1987 all seven villages were demolished and the total population forcibly removed. The largest of the villages, Riano, is now several metres under the new bridge across the reservoir.
Old Riano (not my photo) is now a ruin under the new town bridge
Only one building in old Riano was saved. The 16th century Iglesia de Nuestra Senora del Rosario was moved brick by brick to a new site by the bridge in New Riano. Not everything in the church could be saved but an 8th century baptismal font was moved as were some murals from inside the church.
The Iglesia de Nostra Senora del Rosario…
… and the inside of the church. The altar is not as it once was but the baptismal font was saved together with some longstanding artwork.
Also saved and on display behind the church are the bells from the other churches that were demolished
Impending bad weather on the coast prompted us to move inland again, this time to a small town (a village, really) in the Picos de Europa called Riano. Unbelievable that the better weather should actually be up in the mountains at 1131 metres but, these are not normal times.
The drive to Riano first took us eastwards into the Cantabria Region. Almost immediately after leaving Asturias we came across the very impressive 28 arch bridge, La Puente de la Maza, which spans the Rubin and Pombo estuaries. It’s sheer scale ensures you cannot miss it. In light drizzle which was inevitably going to get heavier once we had parked up, we followed a busy road (this town is a favourite amongst Spaniards and it is a weekend) into what once was an old fisherman’s refuge and has now become the small town of San Vicente de la Barquera.
There are two main bridges in San Vicente de la Barquera but with it’s 28 arches the Maza is easily identified. Just look at the traffic entering the town. There’s no doubt it is a weekend.
In common with just about everywhere on the north coast of Spain, San Vicente offers a picturesque old town and wonderful beaches (it even has a small castle, La Murilla, the King’s Castle which was built to defend against Norman and Viking invasions) but, for me, the single most important feature in this place is at top of the narrow staircase leading into the old town, the church of Santa Maria de los Angeles.
The Prison
The Pilgrim’s Door
Santa Maria de los Angeles
There are plenty of interesting buildings along the route up into the old town, including the old prison, the pilgrim’s door into the Hospital de la Concepcion (a shelter for pilgrim’s on the Northern Camino) and at it’s very end the Santa Maria de los Angeles – to say nothing of the castle, etc.
Originally built in the 13th and 14th centuries but developed further over the ensuing 200 years, the church’s exterior is not that different to many other churches in the Region but inside…I’ll let the photos do the talking:-
The inside of the church took my breath away -it’s three naves with their high pointed vaults, the detailed altar piece, the solid oak floor, even the tomb of the 16th century Inquisitor, Antonio del Corro. I could have stayed for ages but Riano beckoned
One final picture that the weather was never going to allow me to capture. The following picture is currently on display in the town by the local tourist board. So that is what San Vicente de la Barquera looks like when it is not pouring with rain.
San Vicente de la Barquera con la Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles al fondo
We marked our spot at the Novales Cove campsite and took the Van westwards along the Asturian Coast to Ribadesella, the plan being to return to the campsite in the evening.
Ribadesella is a beautiful little fishing town, somewhat smaller than neighbouring Llanes with plenty of character and absolutely stunning beaches. It has a population of little more than 5,000 but is recognised as being one of the most popular, liveliest and busiest towns on the north coast of Spain. The Spaniards love the place but on the day we arrived it was virtually empty. Really dismal and unseasonal weather had kept the crowds at bay. No matter, we were happy to take a look see and stop for lunch.
The River Sella splits the town into two halves which are connected by a lengthy low slung bridge. The eastern half comprises the historical town centre (a network of pretty plazas and streets), the Iglesia Santa Maria Magdalena and the harbour. The western half is mostly about the town’s Santa Marina beach, it’s promenade and a series of very elaborate and colourful mansions (belle epoch style and reminiscent of Dinard in Northern France) which line the promenade.
The eastern half of the town includes the Iglesia Santa Maria Magdalena with it’s two bell towers and prominent statue
On the western side the wide sandy beach of Santa Marina curves around the bay between two grassy headlands for over a kilometre. The little church of Ermita de la Virgen de Guia sits on one of the headlands.
Although the rain held off, the weather was such that we were deterred from visiting some of the local sites and we certainly didn’t see Ribadesella in it’s best light. Indeed, for much of the morning the cloud was barely above sea level. No matter, we saw enough to know it is a very beautiful little town and well worth a return visit. Most certainly, I would like to walk up the Paseo de la Grua to the little church of Ermita de la Virgen de Guia. That route takes you up past 6 large ceramic panels representing Ribadesella through the ages. I have seen prints of them and they look charming. Of equal interest would be the views across the town from the little church. On a fine day, with the Picos de Europa mountains providing a backdrop, I imagine the view would be magnificent.
The above photos belong to Kevmrc. The first shows the Ermita de la Virgen de Guia perched on the western headland. The second shows the view over the town from the church. The third photo is of one of the panels painted by the local artist, Mingote.
The river Sella is a major feature of the town and the following reference to the ‘Descenso Internacional del Sella’ is for my brother as much as anybody. The “Descenso” is an annual kayak race (festival), held on the first Saturday of every August, down the last 20 kilometres of the River Sella from Arriondas in the Picos de Europa to the main bridge in Ribadesella. It has been run since 1930 and the last race attracted 1,000+ entries. Many of the entrants now are professionals but most are relative novices out for the crack. I’m not sure if it will be run this year because of Covid but it is worth reading up on. Oh, and while many entrants will take more than 3 hours to complete the course, the current record is 1 hour and 1 minute.
We left Ribadesella as it started raining but just a few miles down the coast near the hamlet of Cuerres the weather seemed to improve. That is the mountains for you. We were delighted because our next stop was to be at the Bufones de Pria. The Bufones are a natural phenomenon where jets of sea water surge and spout from holes and cracks in the limestone cliffs (a bit like geysers, I suspect). The ones we were visiting are supposedly powerful enough to blow an adult man into the sea and we had arranged it so as to arrive at high tide. Whoopee! We expected great things and we deserved them after navigating the Van along a series of ever narrowing country lanes to reach the place.
It wasn’t to be. The sea was as flat as a millpond.
The bufones would usually be blowing on that peninsula just behind Vanya but there was nothing – not even a trickle. I wonder, is it just a coincidence that the English translation of the Spanish word ‘bufones’ is jester?
Ah well. It was a pretty place and it had stopped raining.
On the way back to Lannes we paused briefly at the tiny hamlet of Cuerres so that I could admire the Church of San Mames. It is so pretty and very unusual with it’s verandahs.
Sad note to end this particular blog on. The weather forecast for the north coast is not so good over the next few days, especially in the Asturias. We’re having to move south (we like the sun too much) but, while I have tasted some excellent local ciders I have not yet been served one from up on high by an escanciador (i.e. a proper Asturian Cider Pourer). I’m going to have to do something about that.
This is going to be the shortest blog ever (and probably not at all interesting) but for completeness’ sake…
It had been hot in Burgos and the weather forecast in the Llannes area of the Asturias was cooler but still bright (perfect) so, we made for a camp site on Novales Cove a few clicks east of LLannes. We drove through Llannes during our stay but saw very little of the town choosing instead to use the campsite as our base and visit Ribadesella (further west in the Asturias) and San Vicente de la Barque (to the east in Cantabria). They are the subject of separate blogs.
The Novales Cove (Ensenade de Novales) is really just about Camping La Paz. The campsite is built around a promontory in the centre of the cove with a pebble beach to the left and a beautiful sandy beach to the right. The camp site is unusual with all sanitary facilities built out of the rock (which makes it feel a little primitive) but, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with the place. The site is terraced (with particularly good pitches for tents) and it provides for absolutely stunning views.
The La Paz Reception area and a view over some of the tent sites
The facilities looked primitive but were fine
The Pebble Beach and the Sandy Beach
The Sandy Beach really is beautiful
Unfortunately, the weather forecast didn’t live up to expectations or we would have stayed longer than our two nights.
Yep. The heat had got to the dogs and, if I’m honest, to Vanya and I also. We simply cannot take it like we used to. We checked a Google weather map for destinations where it is likely to be both cooler and dry and then headed off up the A67 to the Asturian coast to a place not far from Lannes (Vanya had found an interesting looking campsite on Novales Cove).
We hadn’t planned on stopping at Aguilar de Campoo (we simply needed a stop to take lunch and buy a few general provisions) and we very nearly turned back to the motorway as the road to the town began to lead us through a large scruffy industrial complex of factories and warehouses. However, a small 12th century castle overlooks the town and it’s presence suggested there could actually be more to Aguilar de Campoo than factories and warehouses and so we continued into the town… and we were pleasantly surprised.
Having parked the Van we passed over a small bridge and into the town through an old town gate on to the Plaza Espana (the Spain Square, although in truth it is more of a Spain rectangle than a square). The collegiate Church of San Miguel fills one side of the rectangle and the other three sides are arcaded. It is very pretty.
Passing over the bridge and through one of the town’s gates brought us onto the Plaza Espana. The Collegiate Church of San Miguel fills one end of the square (rectangle)…
The other three sides of the Plaza are arcaded
There was a service underway in the church and, leaving the dogs with Vanya, I popped inside to take a few surreptitious photos. That was a mistake. It is one thing trying to sneak a few sneaky photos in a normal church service but quite another when it is a funeral. I hadn’t spotted the (silver coloured) hearse parked at the entrance to the church. Whoops! We beat a hasty retreat to the other end of the plaza. Well, I did.
There is a decent sized park behind the Plaza Espana and we took the dogs there such that they could exercise and yet stay cool under the park trees. We didn’t know it at the time but, in amongst the trees and flower beds, there is a series of muddy irrigation canals (fed by the River Pisuerga) which very much resemble a swamp. It was inevitable that, despite our screaming, admonitions, ultimatums and threats, the dogs would chose to cool off in these particular bogs and within moments they were an absolute mess. Bastard Whoops!!
Dogs like swampland. Dogs do not like getting cleaned.
We had stopped at Aguilar de Campoo because we were hungry and wanted to take lunch. Lunch however was postponed while we walked the dogs around the town until they had stopped shaking mud all over the place and had at least half dried off.
I cannot remember for sure but I think it was unsettled weather forecasts for the far north of Spain which prompted us to move to Burgos. The route we chose was easy with the initial part of the 132 mile journey taking us along the coast through Ondarroa and a couple of other small villages each with beautiful beaches.
Two of the beaches we passed while journeying to Burgos
Burgos, the one time capital of the Kingdom of Castile y Leon sits on the River Arlanzon. We parked up in a municipal campsite alongside the river just four kilometres from the city. The Camino Santiago (Camino Frances Route) passes right by where we were parked and all we had to do to find the cathedral in the centre of the city was follow the Camino’s distinctive scallop shell markers along an excellent path by the river. Pilgrims have been stopping off at the Santa Iglesia Catedral Basilica Metropolitana de Santa Maria de Burgos for hundreds of years on their way to Santiago and the route was as easy as pie, if not as short as I would have liked (but, have a word Dave, spare a thought for the pilgrims who will have already walked many miles to reach this point!!). Sadly, I saw only three pilgrims pass during our 3 day stay in Burgos (and one of those was dodgy, showing more interest in fleecing tourists than the cathedral) and I suspect it is travel restrictions caused by Covid which has greatly reduced this years numbers.
Scallop shell markers show the way along an excellent path into town by the River Arlanzon
Wanting to take a closer look at the statue of Burgos’s most famous son, Rodrigo diaz de Vivar – otherwise known as El Cid (I cannot help but think of Charlton Heston), I made a small detour from the Camino by crossing the river at Puente San Pablo and walking along the cool tree lined and landscaped Paseo de Espelon before entering the old city of Burgos by the 14th century City Gate of Santa Maria. Sorry, that’s a really long sentence.
There’s photo of the Puente San Pablo (the St Pablo Bridge); another of the great El Cid (born just up the road from Burgos) and; a third of a ‘Woman at the Park’ sculpted by Alfa Arte in 2009 (and which is to be found at the eastern end of the Paseo de Espelon). This latter piece is but one of a great many modern statues dotted around the city
The Paseo de Espelon (a tree lined and landscaped promenade – statues, fountains and a long row of old iron gas lamps) leads on to the wonderfully intricate City Gate of Santa Maria. The original city gate was built in the 14th century but a new facade was added during the 16th century to include local celebrities. Needless to say, El Cid was included amongst the celebrities.
As I passed through the gate onto the Plaza del Rey San Fernando I was awe struck by the beautiful 13th century Cathedral of St Mary of Burgos. No, it’s not as grand as Il Duomo in Milan or the Kolner Dom in Cologne. No, it is not as commanding as St Paul’s in London or have the scale of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona and it certainly is not as colourful or sumptuous as the Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence but, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it looks truly magnificent. It fills the Square and it’s smart white limestone colour dazzles in bright sunlight. It is impressive no matter which side it is viewed from. It’s elegant towering spires and incredibly detailed facades lend it a grand nobility. I love it.
Unfortunately, I couldn’t get to see inside the Cathedral. It is supposed to have a particularly ornate altar with brilliant gold plating. I have read too that it has an unusual wood and leather crucifix which just has to be seen and, of course, there is the tomb of El Cid and his wife. I couldn’t understand why nobody was being allowed into the cathedral (I spoke to a Camino “pilgrim” and he was particularly disappointed at being denied entry) but there was a very strong police presence in the Square and rich blue carpets and flowers were being laid at two of the cathedral’s entrances – something was afoot.
The Cathedral fills the Plaza del Rey San Fernando. It’s not normal to have carpets and flowers laid at entrances.
Next to the Cathedral on the Plaza de Santa and alongside the Camino Santiago is the 15th century Iglesia de San Nicolas de Bari. This church at least remained open to the public and I took time to admire it’s impressive altarpiece (lacking gold plate) which I understand was designed and constructed by a Simon de Colonia
The altar within the Iglesia de San Nicolas de Bari
Burgos is resplendent with buildings of significant historical heritage and none fits this bill more so than the 15th century gothic palace of Casa del Cordon in the Plaza de la Libertad. This is the building in which Fernando II and Isabel I received Christopher Columbus upon completion of his second journey to the New World in 1497. It is also where King Felipe I died of suspected poisoning in 1506 within a month of being crowned king. This type of building, with all it’s history and drama, really does it for me.
Casa del Cordon on the Plaza de la Libertad
Another once significant building in Burgos is the 9th century castle. It is one of the oldest castles in Spain although little remains of it now. It was used as a headquarters by Napoleon Bonaparte’s armies during the Peninsula War and was largely destroyed by them when they retreated from Spain. There is a small museum there now but otherwise it is little more than a viewpoint over the town (and not a particularly good one because trees now obscure the best views).
I’ve written a little bit about the numerous modern sculptures around Burgos…
Man leaning against a column reading a newspaper (on a street off the Plaza Mayor) and a Blacksmith in the same area.
Honestly, there are so many and the great majority are life sized. In addition to those already featured in this blog I personally saw the Camino Pilgrim seated on a bench in the Plaza del Rey San Fernando, another of an old couple on a bench (reminds me of a photo I took in Aegina a few years ago), a drummer and another of a cleric or teacher with a young boy (these two were in medieval costume). On the Paseo de la Atapuerca in front of the Museum of Human Evolution there’s another sculpture of a man and boy, wholly naked this time. How attitudes have changed over the years.
Two photos of the Plaza Mayor
Vanya and I walked into Burgos that first night in Burgos for a meal (I’d already made the return journey once already that day) and we took a table belonging to the Larruzz Restaurant in front of the Cathedral. As we ate, the police presence I had noticed earlier in the day heightened and the already large crowd in the Square grew. We asked our waiter if he knew what was going on and he told us that on this day 800 years ago work started on the Cathedral. He explained that the King of Spain would be visiting Burgos the next day to attend an 8th centenary celebration in the Cathedral and that meanwhile, once it got dark enough, there would be a special light show on and from within the Cathedral and that thereafter there would be a fireworks display. What timing! What luck! And we had front row seats from our restaurant. We immediately ordered more drinks and settled in for the evening. It was a great evening.
What a great evening we had as the 8th centenary celebrations commenced
The light show on the Cathedral commenced at about 10pm and the fireworks display at 11.30 pm. It was about 1 am by the time we made it back to the Van
Burgos was great but it was rather hot for the dogs and after a couple of days in the city we set off back to the north coast (because the weather appeared to be improving up in the north and, in any event, it was much cooler).
Joy of Joys! We found an excellent campsite on the edge of Lekeitio which could accommodate us for as long as we wanted.
However, it wasn’t easy going. The SatNav played up almost immediately after we left Bermeo and was at it’s worst ever as we reached Lekeitio. It led us into a particularly narrow, winding lane in the old town centre and once there offered us the choice of either going down a pedestrian precinct (impossible because of a long line of concrete bollards at the far end of the precinct) or going the wrong way up a one way street (before anyone noticed). Any thoughts I had of making a run for it down the one way street were dispelled as the street in front of me filled with a long line of oncoming traffic. There was nothing to do but try a quick twelve and a half point turn, make our way back and find another route through the town. Fortunately, a local guy offered to act as banksman for me (and a good job he did too) and Spanish drivers are so much more patient than the Italian drivers we encountered in Italy last year. We made it in the end but I made a promise to myself that, when moving on from Lekeitio, we would not drive back through the town, no matter the size of the detour we would have to make.
The camp site was perched on a high hill with magnificent views back towards Lekeitio. I’ll not talk about Vanya’s histrionics as we inched up the 40 degree slope with its steep hairpin turns but she had recovered sufficiently by about midnight when she took the second of the two photos below.
That’s the view over Lekeitio (first photo shortly after we arrived; the second shortly before we retired for the night
The next morning Vanya elected for a bit of a rest day while I strolled down the hill into Lekeitio. I think I got the better of the deal because touring in a Van is not all holiday and rest days are great days for changing the bedding, catching up with the laundry and generally tidying up – Thanks awfully Vanya!
Lekeitio has been described as one of Spain’s best kept secrets. I think that description goes too far. The truth is that much of the truly picturesque parts of the town are surrounded by blocks of flats (and that ain’t pretty) but, it certainly is a pleasant enough place to chill out for a couple of days. It’s primary interest up until the 18th century was whaling but as that industry died with the whales, the town switched to more general, local fishing. There still is a fairly strong fishing sector in Lekeitio but the town is now much more about tourism. Having said that, Lekeitio has not prostituted itself to tourism in the same way as so many towns and villages have on the Costas and it is mostly the Spanish who holiday here.
This small town of some 7,000 people sits on the River Lea on the Basque Coast, almost halfway between Bilbao and San Sebastian. There are two fine beaches either side of the River Lea estuary, the Isuntza on the left bank (which was very busy as I arrived) and the much longer Karraspio (which was starting to fill) on the right bank. Just offshore and facing both beaches is the small island of San Nicolas (also known as Garraitz Island). It is an easy swim to the island or, if you wait until the tide is out, you can actually walk to it along a raised sandy pathway. It is said that the island was used to house a colony of lepers back in the Middle Ages but there are only rabbits there now.
The River Lea flows under that bridge and into the Atlantic. That’s the small island of San Nicolas with the photo having been taken from the back of Isuntza Beach
Following the left bank around to the Isuntza Beach and on to the promenade you will pass in front of the Basilica Ascuncion de Nuestra Senora and on to the picturesque old town and harbour. The views back towards the town and across the bay towards the Karraspio Beach from the far end of the harbour are quite special.
The Basilica Ascuncion de Nuestra Senora dates back to the 15th century and was built on the site of a Roman Temple.
Basque Street Scenes in the Old Town – I love them!
The left hand photo reflects the view across to Karraspio Beach from the end of the harbour. The second photo shows the view around the back of the harbour
It was well gone noon (and getting very hot) by the time I had finished my walk to the far end of the harbour and ambled up and down each and every one of the old town’s narrow streets. I was ready for a glass of wine or beer. It wasn’t difficult finding a bar with an empty seat and table on the harbour front and there is something about a 30 degree heat that lends itself to a couple of glasses of well chilled Rose wine.
The Rose; The view back towards the town from ‘my’ bar; The view towards Garraitz Island as the tide went out (with the sand path clearly visible)
Of course I didn’t leave Vanya to all the chores – Upon my return I helped with the laundry by stringing up a clothes line and I started on my Spanish Chicken & Chorizo dish.
