December 2017 – Page 3 – DJmotortouring

Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina – Dec 2017

Despite the Croat-Bosniak war ending 22+ years ago, war damage is still very much in evidence across the city (several buildings ready to be torn down and many more riddled with small arms fire). Also, there is clearly still tension in the city between the two factions, not helped I suspect by the Croat General Slobodan Praljak committing suicide last Wednesday after his sentence for war crimes (committed mostly in and around Mostar) was upheld. A significant number of Croats want to honour Praljak which is upsetting the local Muslim population. Having said that I am finding the people here, Christian and Muslim alike, as friendly as any I have met during this tour. In less than 24 hours, so many have gone out of their way to help make my stay more enjoyable that this promises to be nothing other than a good visit.

The weather forecast was not good today but is excellent for the remainder of the week and I therefore decided this would be a chill day and I would limit my activities to a long walk around the city and to finding a good restaurant for this evening.

Mostar sits on the Neretva River and it’s most famous landmark is a 16th century Ottoman bridge known as the Stari Most which spans the river in the Old Town. The bridge was totally destroyed during the war but rebuilt in 2004. In the summer months the locals dive from its high point of 79 feet.

I spent a couple of hours wandering around looking for the best spot to photograph the bridge even ‘though the weather was not really conducive to good photographs. If nothing else the search allowed me to see all there is of the Old Town.

Two views of the Stari Most from the south and …

…two views of the Stari Most from the north. The latter two photos were taken from the minaret on the Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque

The Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque is the only mosque I have come across that allows visitors access both into the prayer area and to the top of it’s minaret. The attendant there (to my shame I have forgotten his name) was so very informative, telling me amongst other things that this 17th century mosque was also totally destroyed in the war but was reconstructed in 2001 with financial support from Turkey.

First photo is of the KM-P from the Stari Most; the second is a closer view of the minaret I ascended and; the third is of the inside of the mosque showing both the Mihrab (the apse in the wall which as well as facing Mecca is designed to reflect the Imam’s voice back to the people praying behind him) and the Minber (like a pulpit and used to deliver sermons on congregational prayer days such as the two Eids)

A close up of the Stari Most

I’ve gone on a little too much about the Stari Most and the KM-P. I’ll try and take some night time photos when I go for dinner. In the meantime here’s a few other photos of the Old Town which you’ll notice is all cobbled streets:-

I like the first photo. It is the kind of place that Hobbits(es) would stay at if they were to ever visit Mostar

postscript: Would you believe it? The “Hobbits Place” is actually a restaurant, the Konoba Taurus, that was recommended to me as a place to go for dinner (and I did)…

That’s the Konoba Taurus with the windows all lit up. There’s also a night picture of the Stari Most…

… and, finally, the “Don’t Forget Stone” that stands on the Stari Most as a reminder to all and sundry about the war.

Stobrec, Croatia to Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina – Dec 2017

I really like Split. Indeed, up until half way through breakfast this morning I was undecided as to whether to move on or stay another day. The other options were a 140 mile drive down to Dubrovnik (mostly motorway and could be done in a little over 2 hours) or, a ferry across to Ancona in the Marche Region of Italy (I have to get real and start looking for a house sometime) or, a hop across the border into Bosnia. Bosnia won. I’d like to see Sarajevo but if there’s too much snow in the mountains I’ll settle for Mostar and Blagaj, weather permitting.

Before I left Croatia there was time for both a last stroll around the bay at Stobrec and an hour or two up at Klis (pronounced Cleese, as in John Cleese) which is only a 25 minute drive from Split.

Last night’s view of Stobrec from the campsite bar. Upon leaving the bar I met a Mrs Yun from South Korea who with her husband are taking their 3 children on an extended caravan tour of Europe via Russia. They started last May with ferries from South Korea to Japan and then Russia but have since driven across Russia and all around Europe (with the Isle of Skye being their favourite). Good for them. Pil sung!

The visit to Klis was all about a trip to the hillside fortress of Klis which holds a spectacular position high up in the rock face overlooking Split and much of the Dalmatian Coast. The fortress is steeped in history and dates back to at least the 7th Century, changing hands countless times in numerous wars but it is now probably best known as having been the setting for Mereen, one of the three great city states captured by Daenerys Targaryen (she who is “Queen of Mereen, Mother of Dragons, Khaleesi of the Great Grass Sea, etc”) in the TV series of “Game of Thrones”.

I believe the views in the first two photos figured prominently in Game of Thrones.

I seem to have developed a thing about taking photos through windows. Some of the views (drops) were amazing

In the second photo, Split can be seen in the distance

Crossing the border into Bosnia was a straight forward affair although once again the Croatian authorities (and those in Bosnia too) was very thorough in terms of checking passports. At the crossing I had to buy additional motor insurance (it seems British insurance companies rarely extend their cover to Bosnia) but it took no more than 5 minutes and cost just 20 euros. I had been told previously that it’s best not to enquire about the extent of the insurance cover; so I didn’t. At least I remain legal.

Bosnian roads do not look that good (and feel even worse) and the motorway to Mostar that I joined at the border crossing petered out quite literally in less time than it took me to pay the toll money. It was hardly worth joining the motorway but this is a poor country that never received the investment that Croatia once did from the West. I’m looking forward to this part of the tour but I suspect it will be very different from all of the other places visited so far.

More about Bosnia over the next couple of days. Right now I am checking into Mostar’s second finest hotel (the best hotel cannot accommodate the Van) with a view to spoiling myself again. Bath, pool, sauna, massage…

Split, Marjan Hill – Dec 2017

Today rates as one of the best days of the tour, my primary objectives being to (i) revisit Diocletian’s Palace and; (ii) walk up the Marjan Hill for it’s supposedly spectacular views of Split and; (iii) eat a small tub of fritules (not unlike little Rum Baba’s that the Wimpy Burger chain used to sell). All three objectives were accomplished but the Marjan Hill really stood out for me.

I was on the 25 bus into Split shortly after 7.30 am and had walked, I think, every aspect of the Palace before most of Split had finished their first cup of coffee at work. I’m not saying I have seen everything of the Palace. It is one of those places that you will see something different no matter how many times you go. What is unusual about this site compared with others is that it is open to the public and available throughout the year to walk and touch- it seems a bizarre way of preserving such treasures. I took far too many photos but will include just a few otherwise this will look more like a photo album than a blog.

There’s a bust of the Roman Emperor Diocletian, a local boy made good, who made life seriously uncomfortable for the Christians. The second photo is of the Peristyle (a garden porch that leads into what were his living quarters) and the third a bit of artistic detail from the Peristyle which caught my eye.

Much of the Palace is still being used. The first photo is of one of two parts of the Palace that were converted into scenes for the TV mini-series “Game of Thrones”. The other two photos show areas that are currently used as an indoor market

It is ironic that within 300 years of Diocletian dying, his sarcophagus was destroyed by Christians and his Palace Mausoleum converted into the Sveti Duje or Cathedral of St Domnius, Domnius being one of many who were martyred during Diocletian’s persecution of the Christians.

The Bell Tower of the Cathedral of St Domnius standing proudly alongside the Peristyle

The real surprise today was the Marjan Hill. It made my day because it proved to be more than just a place to enjoy “spectacular views of Split”.

Because I had seen all I needed to see of the Palace before 9 am, there was sufficient time to walk around the Marjan peninsula and ascend the hill from the rear (instead of taking the more direct approach from the marina). The walk around the peninsula was noticeable for the scent of oranges (fully ripe later this month) and for great views out to sea but it was the walk up the back of the hill through the Mediterranean Pine Forest that was special.

The ascent was easy; very gradual with excellent paths and requiring minimal effort to reach the first of the two summits on the 178m hill. For most of the way I walked the old road which, at least during the low season, is restricted to pedestrians and cyclists. The views out to sea and across to Trogir improved as height was gained but the real interest was on the inside against Marjan’s steep cliff faces.

View across to Trogir during the ascent

There are a number of hermit caves and small churches dotted around the south side of the hill (with the most interesting being the 15th century church of St Jerome) which you would miss altogether unless ascending the hill from the rear. I took a video of St Jerome (posted on Facebook earlier today) which says it all. Also, the sheer cliffs on the south side and to the rear of the hill (many with significant overhangs) appear to offer excellent climbing. I sat for an hour watching in awe as a couple of free climbers went to work on those cliffs.