After leaving Serignan we drove east (passing our 3,000 mile mark for this tour halfway between Montpelier and Arles). We were heading further east into Italy but were determined, first, to make the most of a day at least in Martigues (often referred to as the Venice of Provence). To this end, Vanya found us a campsite just a few miles south of Martigues in the tiny hamlet (and I mean really tiny) of Sainte Croix.
Camping Marius backs on to the beach of a small bay (Anse Sainte Croix) in the Golfe de Lion. There are at least two beaches on the bay and dogs are allowed on the first of these. It wasn’t long, therefore, before we were down on the beach with Nala and Beanie and, naturally, whilst there, I skipped over a small rise (by the lifeguard station) to check out the second beach where dogs are not allowed. There are other campsites in the immediate area of the beaches but ours was the only one open so early in the year and, except for a handful of people on the beach, I had the area pretty much to myself.
Behind this second, very pretty beach, is a small promontory overlooking the bay and on it are two chapels. The first is the 12th century ruin of Saint Terro and the second is the 17th century Chapel of Saint Croix. I was unable to gain access to either but the views weren’t bad. Further along on the promontory are what’s left of some WWII defensive fortifications (gun emplacements, small bunkers and a concrete mount for radar equipment) which were installed by the Luftwaffe following the German occupation of France. The views from this point out to sea and back across the bay are excellent and the Cap Couronne lighthouse is easily visible to the west of the bay.
Anyway, enough about Sainte Croix. It’s Martigues we’re here to see…