Apologies, we’ve long since returned to the UK from Tour 12 and I’m still playing catch up with the blog.
Leaving Germany, we made our way to La Roche en Ardenne in Belgium. We travelled by way of the Luxembourg hamlet of Nommern; spending a night there so as to take the dogs to a vet in nearby Mersch in readiness for the journey home to the UK.
Nestled in a small ravine on the banks of the River Ourthe and surrounded by the Ardenne Forest, La Roche is a picturesque little town some 17 miles south east of Durbuy. It is sometimes described as a hidden gem but, that cannot be true given it is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Ardennes. The town’s principal features are it’s castle ruins, church, ‘Battle of the Bulge’ museum and a small wildlife park but it is it’s setting on the river in this beautiful part of Belgium which makes it special.
The small privately owned museum in the centre of the town belonging to Michel Bouillon and his son Gilles is well worth visiting because seeing La Roche en Ardenne now, it is hard to believe the town was almost completely destroyed during World War II. Their incredible collection of wartime artefacts help explain how the town had been reclaimed from the Germans in September 1944 but was again under threat on 16 December 1944 when Hitler’s armies launched the ‘Wacht am Rhein’ offensive through the Ardennes. As this attack grew into the ‘Battle of the Bulge’, the embattled US troops retreated from the town; calling in bombers as they did so to slow the German advance by destroying a Bailey Bridge they had constructed over the Ourthe. The 9th US Air Force bombed the town for 7 consecutive days but succeeded only in destroying 90% of the town’s buildings and killing 114 of the townsfolk. The bridge remained intact and the Germans reoccupied the town until being evicted on 11 January 1945 by British groundforces of the 51st Highland Division. Troops of the 84th US Infantry Division arrived shortly thereafter and, later still, a photographer turned up. Seeing British and US troops together the photographer recognised that the ‘Bulge’ had been closed and staged a photo of the allied troops meeting in La Roche. This photo was later used to produce a commemorative plaque in the town…
Most of the old town and all the houses along the banks of the river were totally destroyed during the Battle of the Bulge and had to be completely rebuilt. Reconstruction started almost immediately after the war but even now the town is only a third of it’s pre-war size.
The once imposing 9th century feudal castle which was occupied up until the end of the 18th century was deemed irreparable although in recent years steps have since been taken to make good what is left and it is worth a walk up to the ruins for the good views both across the town and along the River Ourthe. The castle is supposedly haunted by a 9th century countess, Bertold of La Roche. Wanting to marry her off, Bertold’s father organised a jousting tournament where the winner was promised the Countess as his bride. The young woman’s favourite was killed during the tournament and she was compelled to marry the tournaament champion. Inconsolable, she was found dead the following morning and it is believed her ghost haunts the castle ruins to this day.
Of course I don’t believe in this particular ghost but the story serves to introduce some rather splendid street art and an intriguing statue in the town centre (in front of the town hall) which I assume are representations of the Countess Bertold…
The town’s primary church in the centre of the old town, L’Eglise Saint Nicholas, is also worth a visit. There’s much of interest inside the church, especially in terms of paintings and small statues but; it is the church organs (there are three) and the modern stained glass windows with their colourful abstract patterns which most impress. Built between 1899 and 1901 it is not an old church but it too suffered extensive damage during the Battle of the Bulge and had to be repaired later in the 1940’s. The largest of the three organs was installed as recently as 2008 and the stained glass windows in 1980.
Most of La Roche’s bars, restaurants and shops are on Rue Chamont in what was the old town centre but there are others across the river on the Place du Bronze. Indeed, we enjoyed a very good Chinese meal at La Chine, just over the bridge. I’ll finish with some photos…
